Any fish keeper can have a serious headache when there is algae in the aquarium. They appear out of nowhere, spreading across the decorations, plants, and glass, frequently transforming a lovely underwater scene into something less appealing. The first step in keeping your tank clean and your aquatic life happy is learning about the various types of algae and being able to identify them when you see them.
Certain types of algae can be helpful in small quantities, but others can quickly take over and cause issues for your aquarium’s plants and fish. Understanding the prevalent types of algae, their causes, and
- Methods of combating and getting rid of aquarium algae
- Algae flash is a visual evidence of a violation (absence) of biobalance in the aquarium. This is the loss of some link in the balance.
- Algae in the aquarium – know the enemy in the face!
- Types of aquarium algae with photos
- Brown or diatomaceous algae
- Red algae or black algae
- Vietnamese algae or deer antlers
- Black beard algae
- Filamentous algae (popularly – filamentous algae)
- Xenocrocus – green plaque on the walls of the aquarium
- Video on the topic
- Algae in the aquarium | Why algae in the aquarium | How to get rid of algae in an aquarium
- Algae haunts me
- How to get rid of algae in an aquarium! Removing Algae from Aquarium Equipment!
- Plants and Algae in an Aquarium | Algae in an Aquarium | How to Get Rid of Algae
- Know Your Enemy!!! – Vietnamese and Black Beard. How to Win???
- How to Get Rid of Red Algae in an Aquarium
- Algae in an Aquarium | How to Get Rid of Algae in an Aquarium | Aquarium without algae (#66)
- Prevention and #control of #algae in #aquarium. All about algae and the reasons for their appearance.
Methods of combating and getting rid of aquarium algae
Thus, these are the primary and efficient ways to fight blue-green, brown, black, and green algae.
1. IT IS VERY IMPORTANT TO DETERMINE WHAT KIND OF PLAQUE IT IS, WHAT KIND OF ALGAE.
There are a large number of algae – species and subspecies. Of course, it is impossible to know all of them, but you need to know the group, the genus of these algae! The effectiveness of the fight and the actions that need to be taken depend on this.
This is where all the confusion lies in the advice on the forums: remove the light, turn on the light … Everyone has different outbreaks of algae, different aquariums, different lighting, water and aquatic organisms.
This article will describe the main and most common algae in the aquarium and the specifics of dealing with them.
2. AQUARIUM BIOBALANCING IS OUR EVERYTHING!
The root cause of any aquarium trouble is the absence or violation of biobalance in the aquarium, that is, the mutual equilibrium of all aquatic organisms (fish, plants, mollusks, algae, fungi, bacteria, etc..).
You will be surprised, but in the aquarium there are always, constantly present spores of various algae, as well as bacteria and fungi. All of them perform their function, for example, to clean the aquarium from dead organic matter, remove poisons from the aquarium (ammonium, nitrites and nitrates), etc.. In other words, the aquarium is not sterile – it is a living organism consisting of various groups, colonies of living organisms visible and invisible to humans.
If algae in the aquarium are not properly managed, they can quickly become a problem. Keeping your aquarium beautiful and healthy starts with knowing what kinds of algae to look for. Understanding the situation at hand will help you take the appropriate action to manage the growth of algae and preserve a healthy aquatic environment.
Algae flash is a visual evidence of a violation (absence) of biobalance in the aquarium. This is the loss of some link in the balance.
Having found out what kind of link it fell, you need to return it to its place. What is difficult for a beginner to do!Here are the main reasons for the loss of the biobalance link
When there is filamentous algae in the aquarium, my mood color is black (https://fanfishka.ru).
Inappropriate aquarium lighting mode or an abundance of natural light in the aquarium. As a result, the amount of daylight must be adjusted or decreased. Alternatively, as a precaution, turn out the light for a few days if at all possible.
Not enough light. It is therefore essential to extend daylight hours. More DIY aquarium lighting options, as well as a wider selection of lamps. This is especially important for brown diatoms, which prefer mild lighting and are found in "young aquariums."
The presence of excess dead organic matter and dirt in the aquarium (dead plants, fish, food remains, waste products of aquatic organisms, etc.).d.). Simply put, the aquarium does not have time to cope with such a quantity of "garbage" and the only way out for our beloved aquarium is to call for help algae, which will happily gobble up all this muck.
Accordingly, you need to remove all the "garbage": siphon the bottom of the aquarium, clean the walls, decor and equipment, mechanically try to remove the algae, and also do more frequent and more complete water changes with fresh water, in the end, you can pour aquarium carbon into the filter compartment. The next reason follows from the above and is a destructive continuation of the accumulation of "dirt" in the aquarium. All dead organic matter is decomposed by beneficial bacteria and fungi, and removed from the aquarium. If there is a lot of this dead organic matter and it accumulates, microorganisms do not have time to process it. Poisons begin to accumulate in the aquarium – decomposition products: ammonia, nitrites and nitrates, which leads not only to the appearance of algae, but generally destroys all living things in the aquarium.
In addition to the above measures for thorough cleaning of the aquarium, it is necessary to use aquarium preparations that either take away the poisons or contribute to the increase in the colony of beneficial nitrifying bacteria, for example: Zeolite . Sold in pet stores. Zeolite takes on ammonium ions and thereby stops the outbreak of nitrogen compounds.
Preparations for biostarters and for encouraging the growth of beneficial bacterial colonies. Numerous popular preparations exist, such as Tetra SafeStar, Tetra NitratMinus, and Tetra NitrateMinus Pearls, which are meant to feed beneficial bacteria among other things.
3. The aquarium has a lot of plants.
Although the scientific proof of plants suppressing algae has not yet been established, the fact remains that in an aquarium with live aquarium plants (1/2, 2/3 parts), algae outbreaks are actually rare; the only time they do occur is when green dots appear, and that is only due to strong lighting. Thus, make sure to plant beds if you have the chance to give the plants the right conditions, such as LIGHT, CO2, and UDO.
4. There are useful aquatic organisms that fight – they eat algae and algae plaque: Siamese algae eaters – tireless workers of the aquarium, sometimes it seems that the only meaning of their life is an insatiable desire to kiss all the plants and all the stones, and walk along all the aquarium decorations. They can also be found under the abbreviation SAE, which stands for Siamese Algae Eater. There are also KAE and IAE – Chinese and Indian algae eaters. Effective against algae "black beard", "thread algae" and "deer horns" etc. Otocinclus – no less effective fish. Thanks to the structure of their mouth, they carefully and well remove algae from plants, decor and walls. Copes with green, brown (diatoms) algae and others. Ancistrus – also useful. But, unlike the above-mentioned fish, adult ancistrus are lazy. And they say that in addition to algae, they also eat plants.
Good helpers in the fight against algae also include the entire family poeciliidae – guppies, swordtails, mollies, platies and others. All possible mollusks – ampullaria, coils, physes, marisas and others. They will help with algae bloom at least a little.
Amano shrimptheodoxus
5. Lastly, measures to suppress algae in aquariums will prove to be beneficial. Pet stores sell a lot of these preparations; most of them have the word "Algo" (algae) in their names, like Tetra AlgoStop Depot.
It is necessary to use these preparations sensibly, cautiously, and in accordance with the directions. Because the Tetra company’s preparations contain monolinuron, which has a softer, more gentle effect, we suggest their products. Tetra preparations don’t harm fish or plants when used properly, taking into account all the conditions in the aquarium. Further information is available here.
Another and quite extensive group of preparations for algae contains glutaraldehyde – an algicide of more powerful action. It can be used in advanced cases or, for example, in dense grasslands. In general, in practice it has been noted that if the aquarium is just with fish, it is better to use Tetra and monolinuron. And if we are talking about a herbalist – an aquarium with plants, then preparations based on glutaraldehyde behave well and are effective. There are a lot of such preparations, including those from domestic brands. Of all the variety, we can recommend the anti-algae drug from the Medosa company VladOx – glutaraldehyde, at an adequate price! You can find out more about this drug Here.
So, we have considered the main reasons for the appearance of algae in the aquarium, and also analyzed the main methods of dealing with them. Finally, it should be noted that "algae" comes in the complex, in connection with which it is necessary to deal with it comprehensively, t.e. not one method, but several at once, or even at once by all.
Algae in the aquarium – know the enemy in the face!
Types of aquarium algae with photos
As was already mentioned, algae come in a wide variety. More than thirty thousand species exist! The most popular are listed below.
The thallus’s color served as a simple means of division due to the profusion of algae, resulting in:
Brown algae (Phaeophceae); green algae (Chlorophceae); yellow-green algae (Xantophceae); red algae (Rhodophceae); golden algae (Chrysophceae); blue-green algae (Cynophceae); diatoms (Diatomeae);
They include the following "popular algae pests":
Brown or diatomaceous algae
(The aquarium’s ground, walls, and rocks have a brown coating.)
These algae are the most basic and, insofar as they are concerned, harmless. They are at the top of the list because they frequently show up in novice aquariums. Their absence of lighting is the primary cause of their appearance, followed by the nitrogen cycle in the aquarium lacking a stable biobalance. Diatoms will vanish on their own as soon as the young aquarium gets off its knees and/or lighting is added. Both a scraper and a machine can be used to remove them.
Red algae or black algae
Vietnamese algae or deer antlers
On every forum, they write about this algae. And yet, the unfortunate owners of aquariums infected with this virus continue to add to their ranks. It’s hard to get rid of this algae because it’s so persistent. Its appearance mostly suggests that the aquarium it lives in has a lot of organic matter in it to eat. additionally to a potential strong current. Control strategies: We remove organic matter, siphon the soil, and thoroughly clean everything. We use algaecides and algae eaters, perform frequent water changes (up to 50% weekly), and add carbon and zeolite to the filter. Having phosphate and nitrogen tests available would be beneficial.
Black beard algae
Many people mistake it for Vietnamese, even though the two are similar in appearance and origin. It usually shows up in newly established aquariums. The removal techniques are the same.
Filamentous algae (popularly – filamentous algae)
Edogonium algae
The most frequent kind of filamentous algae to attack an aquarium is this one. It appears as green fluff at first, then as long green threads. Whenever they manifest, it is advised to employ the control techniques mentioned above. Furthermore, it is mentioned in the literature that the absence of macroelements is the reason this algae grows. Phosphates and nitrates, in particular, are surprisingly frightening to novices. Nevertheless, their addition is observed to have a favorable impact. Advanced cases involve the use of preparations containing algaecide.
A tried-and-true plan involves changing the water, burning for a few days with algaecides, aligning the Redfield proportion (the ratio of nitrate to phosphate), adding a little more phosphate, and then adding Amano shrimp. That’s it; Edik has left.
Cladophora, or filamentous cladophora as it is commonly known
It lacks long threads and has branches. It typically grows in aquariums with inadequate water flow, filtration, and stagnation zones where it "blooms." It can be eradicated by mechanically removing harmful elements and by using an algaecide.
Spirogyra
In addition to being green and slimy, this algae grows in a geometric pattern, which makes it extremely nasty. It is challenging to get rid of; neither SAE nor algaecide will be helpful. Though challenging, it is mechanically defeatable: gather it by hand or siphon it from the bottom. In addition, the following aids in control measures: putting out the lights, fish, and shrimp that eat algae.
Rhizoclonium
Given that it possesses a filiform structure, it can also be categorized as a filamentous algae. It typically occurs in newly established aquariums where the nitrogen cycle, also known as the biobalance, has not yet been adjusted. This algae is not that frightening! After the aquarium’s biobalance is established or restored, it essentially vanishes. It can be controlled using any general method. The two that work best are algaecide and water changes.
Xenocrocus – green plaque on the walls of the aquarium
Everyone comes into contact with this algae, novices and experts alike. Excessive lighting or an inappropriate daylight schedule can make it appear. The biomass of the plants is irrelevant in this situation. It can be seen in an aquarium with "three plants" as well as one with abundant vegetation. General recommendations to combat xenocrocus (correct name: coleheta) include reducing, adjusting daylight, using an algaecide, mechanical cleaning, enlisting the assistance of fish and mollusks, and performing frequent water changes.
Type of Algae | Description |
Green Algae | Common and often harmless, but can take over if the tank is neglected. |
Blue-Green Algae | Actually a bacteria, it can spread quickly and create a slimy layer. |
Brown Algae | Often seen in new tanks, it forms a brown film on surfaces. |
Hair Algae | Grows in long strands, usually due to excess nutrients. |
This is a succinct wrap-up for the piece you wrote on your website, "Algae in the Aquarium: Know Your Enemy by Sight!"
Although algae in aquariums can be a pain, you can manage them if you know what to do. It is easier to diagnose the issue and select the most effective control strategy if you are aware of the common types of algae that grow in aquariums.
The main defenses against excessive algae growth are appropriate feeding, balanced lighting, and routine maintenance. You can keep the aquatic environment your fish and plants are in healthy and beautiful by being proactive and taking care of algae problems early on.
Recall that a small amount of algae is normal and even helpful, but when it begins to overgrow, action must be taken. Watch your tank and don’t be afraid to make changes as needed.