Anubias

Aquarium enthusiasts love Anubias, a hardy plant that is well-liked for both its eye-catching appearance and rugged nature. Native to West Africa, this adaptable aquatic plant comes in a variety of forms, each with a distinct charm of its own. Anubias is a great option for adding greenery to your tank, regardless of experience level from novice to expert aquarist.

Anubias’s low maintenance needs are among its greatest advantages. It is perfect for a lot of aquarium setups because it can survive in a variety of water conditions and doesn’t require bright lighting. The plant lends elegance to any aquarium with its broad, dark green leaves and slow growth rate.

Anubias does not need to be planted in substrate, as some aquatic plants do, as they can be affixed to rocks or driftwood. It can be easily incorporated into a variety of tank designs thanks to its versatility. Explore the world of anubias, and you’ll discover that they’re not only aesthetically pleasing but also low maintenance.

Maintenance and cultivation of anubias in an aquarium

Anubias in an image of an aquarium

Now for the most crucial part: how can you grow anubias in your aquarium in bunches or thickets? The first thing a beginner aquarist should know is that, even though anubias are oak plants, they still require the same care as other aquatic plants. In other words, anubias require the right amounts of nitrogen and phosphorus, or nitrate and phosphate, in microelements, in appropriate lighting, and in water changes.

Just a quick note: please watch our video about anubias if it is convenient for you at this time. We provided a clear explanation and provided a visual representation of the conversation’s topic.

Aquariums come in various varieties, including cichlid, home herbalist, and aquascaper jar models. You can keep anubias in any of these varieties. It is crucial to comprehend the plant’s details alone.

Underwater anubias grow very slowly; from a branch, you can get three or four more shoots in a year with proper care. This leads us to the conclusion that the plant does not require high fertilizer concentrations or nuclear lighting. If the majority of the plants in your aquarium are slow-growing, such as ferns, anubias, and bucephalandras, you shouldn’t add nitrate phosphate in the recommended Redfield ratio of 1:15. It is preferable to divide this dosage into two sessions per week, say 0.5 to 8, following a water change.

What benefits does this offer? This will shield your anubias and other slow-growing plants from algae-related issues, especially those caused by bord, vietnamka, and xenococcus. Anubias cannot quickly absorb fertilizers, needs little in the way of building materials, and develops its organism slowly. Algae will eat their surplus, grinning like a Cheshire cat.

Minimal amounts of micro-fertilizers should also be available for anubias. Please disregard the separate introduction of potassium-poop and iron. An underdose on anubias is preferable to an overdose. For nitrate phosphate, use drip tests, but don’t go overboard.

The same holds true for illumination. Masters can place anubias under the strongest lamps in aquascaper aquariums, but their own hidden mechanisms—creation, love of art, and theodoxus—work there as well. Anubias grow well in amateur aquariums with 50 lumens per liter or less. Raising the lighting’s intensity won’t promote the plant’s growth; instead, it will only make algae problems worse. Plant anubias bushes low, in the corners, and in the shade if your grassland lighting is good, starting at 70 lm/l.

Keeping Anubias with Theodocus snails or pricey Neretina is highly desirable. These diligent laborers will lick the Xen and Beard anubias leaves. Your Anubias will remain silky and healthy forever!

About retaining Anubias in fish aquariums. The only difference between African cichlids and other fish is that their water is harder and more alkaline. And this implies that plants will absorb nutrients less effectively. It is therefore not worth undervaluing if the cichlid is kept with standard Redfield. Once more, cichlids generally poop like Nile crocodiles and have an overabundance of phosphorus and nitrogen in their bodies. That means you just need to change the water more often.

Reproduction of Anubias

Anubias use seeds to proliferate. However, this approach is only meant for our hobby’s most ardent gourmets. The rhizome of the plant is typically just chopped into pieces and planted in designated zones.

How to attach anubias to decorations?

The traditional method of attaching anubias and other aroid plants, as well as ferns similar to them, to rocks and driftwood is as follows. You’ll need a fishing line or even just thread for this. After decorating a number of anubias, you submerge the entire thing in your aquarium. The anubias’ roots eventually cling to the décor they are placed on, and the fixative can be removed with scissors. However, all of this is drawn out and ugly, and sometimes it’s not appropriate to do things like wind the plant with threads on a big stone. Ah, that.

The best aquascapers in the world employ a more contemporary technique. To start, let me say that it is safe, harmless, doesn’t emit anything, everything will work out, and the fish won’t perish. Here’s a video about it, actually.

Consider super-glue gel, which is gel and does not spread. Additionally, apply a mini-droplet to a diver’s fifth point, a stone, a snag, or a castle. And apply the anubias to the furnishings. All set after five seconds of holding!

Who’s scared? There’s another forum for this subject here. I want to emphasize that you only need to use a small amount of glue—just a drop will do—because the anubias will eventually cling to the roots and that’s what matters most.

Regarding the actual planting of anubias. FanFishka will assert that it is possible, despite the widespread misconception that this cannot be accomplished since the plant’s roots will rot. It’s okay to plant anubias in the ground, especially large burdocks. The plant will just cling to the soil fraction and grow peacefully.

Anubias can only be fed through the root system at the same time. Situation: I’m not familiar with your amateur aquarium, but it has anubis and cryptocoryncs. echinodorus, among others. p. If you apply liquid macro-micro fertilizers and err in the dosage, these slow-growing plants may develop green algae patches and other fouling. Only through the root system at a run, i.e., with Redfield zeroed in water, can anubias, crypts, and echi feed. As general recommendations for gainers for bodybuilders, a rich root diet is suggested for Cryptocorynes and Echinodorus.

Generally speaking, in this situation, use tweezers to apply complex soil fertilizers (containing macro and micro), such as partner sticks Tetra InitialSticks (composition: humus, clay, iron, and other goodies), under the plant’s roots. And that’s it! And voilà! There is no algae and the plants are well-fed.

The well-known retailer Aqua Logo Shop has everything you could possibly need for maintaining an aquarium, including fertilizers for your favorite herbalist. We advise against it!

Types of Anubias

It is important to note that Anubias comes in a very wide range of selections and hybrids. Furthermore, tiny specimens go by a variety of names, including petites, nanas, bonsai, and dwarf. Horseradish is generally not sweeter than radish. They are all essentially the same from the perspective of habitus. The variations are negligible.

The Anubias family includes giant burdocks as well. Compared to dwarf varieties, they require less maintenance. However, they are usually taken to be planted in large aquariums containing cichlid fish. Burdocks will shade out all other plants in small herb gardens.

Here are a few varieties of anubias; please note that this is in addition to the article.

Anubias plants are a popular choice for aquariums because of their low maintenance requirements and hardy nature. They are perfect for both novice and seasoned aquarists, as they flourish in a variety of lighting and water conditions. Their distinct, sturdy leaves and gradual growth rate give any tank a lush, organic look while also providing an adaptable choice for designing dynamic aquatic scenes. Aquarium enthusiasts can guarantee that Anubias remain a vibrant and healthy part of their underwater world by knowing the essential care tips for these plants.

Anubias afzelii or afzelius (Anubias afzelii)

Anubias afzelii

Grows in the Gambia, Mali, Guinea-Bissau, Guinea, Sierra Leone, Senegal, and along riverbanks in swamps.

Anubias afzelii is characterized by bright green separately growing foliage, its shape is oval, the top is rounded, the base is wedge-shaped, slightly pointed towards the end. Leaf blade up to 20 cm long, up to 10 cm wide. Long cuttings. The height of the plant stem under favorable conditions can reach 50 cm, but in an aquarium 25 cm is its maximum height. Large rhizome with powerful roots. About a dozen varieties of Anubias afzelii can be found in aquariums.
In an aquarium, the plant is best planted near the side walls in the background. Anubias grows slowly. Water parameters: temperature 23-25 ​​C, water hardness and acidity neutral. The plant needs "clean water", good filtration and regular replacement are necessary.

Moderately diffused lighting (~50 lm/l). Green algae grows on the leaves when there is too much light, which degrades the condition of the leaves. Anubias thrives in daylight hours of eight to twelve.

Able to be planted in ground. The plant doesn’t care how big the substrate is because of its strong root system. Layer of soil: up to 10–15 cm. Slow growth occurs; typically, 1-2 leaves appear each month. The plant feels far better in a humid greenhouse or paludarium than it does in an aquarium.

The plant produces lateral shoots during its life that it can use to spread. The rhizome needs to be buried in the ground all the way to the base of the leaves when planting a shoot. Only the roots of a large plant with a developed rhizome are buried in the soil during planting; the rhizome remains above ground. It is nearly hard to propagate Anubias seeds under artificial conditions. seeds that are typically inferior and are exclusively formed in the paludarium.

Anubias dwarf nana petite (Anubias barteri var. nana)

Nana Anubias

Plant habitat – tropics of Cameroon. Anubias dwarf grows along the banks of streams, rivers, swamps, usually completely submerged in water. Roots on tree roots, stones, less often in the ground.
Anubias nana has a shortened stem, on it a rosette of petiolate leaves. The plant is low, grows on average up to 8-12 cm. A hard oval leaf blade, the base of which is rounded, with a sharp tip, shiny green, up to 8 cm in length and up to 4 cm in width. The petiole is short, no more than 5 cm. The rhizome of Anubias is branched, creeping and completely covered with leaves.
Several plants of Anubias dwarf are planted in the aquarium at the same time on the front plan. The plant"s rhizome can be attached to a snag, a stone, or simply deepened into the ground. Anubias grows slowly, although after some time it forms a well-compacted bunch, which becomes a shelter for some aquarium inhabitants. Anubias nana develops equally measuredly in both air and water environments. Thanks to its hard leaves, the plant will feel at home in an aquarium with cichlids.

Because it prefers shade, bright lighting is not recommended; otherwise, the plant will become covered in algae and become unsightly. 8 to 12 hours of daylight.

Anubias small

Water parameters: pH 6-7.5, hardness (dGH) 2–15, temperature 22–28 C. Weekly replacement of the water is required because the plant grows best in clean, well-filtered water. Soil: Proppant, for instance, is a small fraction that makes an excellent substrate. The plant’s root system does not delve very far into the ground. Only the roots need to be lowered when planting anubias; the rhizome should remain above ground. The plant forms a plexus of roots as it grows, rising noticeably above the soil’s surface. In an aquarium, dwarf anubias grow without much need for mineral fertilizers.

Shrub Anubias propagates through shoots that emerge from the rhizome. The shoot can be divided and moved to a different location once it has produced five or six leaves. It is possible to grow dwarf anubias in a paludarium or a humid greenhouse with a minimum temperature of 26 °C. Peat, humus, sand, and turf soil should make up the soil. Anubias grows similarly in a greenhouse as it does in an aquarium, so it can be watered with complex fertilizers a couple of times a month.

Anubias heterophylla

Found in the shady marshy areas of Africa (Equatorial Guinea, Cameroon, Congo, Gabon, Zaire, Angola). In nature, the plant is partially submerged in water.
Anubias heterophylla or Congolese – grows slowly. Leaf plate ellipsoid or lanceolate, green, leathery,

length from 10 to 38 cm, width from 3 to 13 cm. The leaf is sharp at the tip, the base can be both sharp and round, short in the form of an arrow or spear, the edges are slightly wavy. Leaf blade with clearly visible main and lateral veins. Anubias petiole is slightly smaller than the leaf or equal to it. Peduncle length 5-27 cm. The covering leaf reaches 4.5 cm in length, when ripening it opens wide. The flowers are small, united in a cob, which protrudes almost half above the cover. Very small seeds. The rhizome is fleshy, thick, creeping, sometimes branched, adventitious roots are cord-shaped. Anubias reaches 25-60 cm in height. Bush width from 15 to 25 cm.

It is best to grow Anubias congolese in a paludarium so that it can reach its full potential. Its height can even reach one meter, and its leaves will be roughly 40 centimeters long. Anubias grows slowly in an aquarium, and its leaves get smaller. An expansive tropical aquarium is comfortable for Anubias heterophylla. You can place the plant in the center of the aquarium or in the background. Fish that eat plants show no interest in it. It is best to remove the Anubias flower stalk as soon as it emerges because the plant becomes much weaker as the flowering season comes to an end.

Hardness 2–16, pH 6–8, temperature 24-28 C. a lighting that is moderate. soil with sand and clay (small gravel is possible).

Propagated through rhizome division and seeds. Before being planted, the rhizome is split into sections with three to four leaves. Without leaves, plots are submerged in water until roots grow and leaves show.

Anubias graceful (Anubias gracilis)

Habitat – Sierra Leone and Guinea. The plant prefers the shade of trees, a humid environment along the banks of rivers, lakes, streams, which are full-flowing during the rainy season (during this period the plant is under water for some time).
The rhizome of Anubias graceful is up to 1.5 cm thick. The petiole is about 60 cm long, short vagina. The leaf blade is green, heart-shaped, leathery, from 10 to 40 cm long and up to 20 cm wide, pointed at the top, rounded at the base. The length of the peduncle is from 6 to 15 cm. The covering leaf is up to 3 cm long, elliptical in shape. The spadix is ​​up to 3 cm long, with a large number of flowers. Anubias graceful blooms from late winter until late spring.
Anubias graceful prefers a humid greenhouse, but it can also be kept in an aquarium, only a spacious, large one. When planted in an aquarium, the plant acclimatizes for several months. Anubias graceful is a tall plant, so it is better to place it in the background of an aquarium. The plant grows very slowly.

The conditions for optimal maintenance of Anubias graceful: temperature 22-28 C, pH 6.6-7.0, hardness 5-15. The plant develops normally only in clean water, so it is necessary to provide its powerful filtration and weekly replacement. In turbid water, anubias leaves form through holes. The plant prefers diffused lighting. Daylight 8-12 hours.
Anubias graceful will grow well in nutritious soil. Hydroponics cultivation is possible.
Anubias graceful should be planted so that its powerful rhizome is not buried, but remains on the surface. Only the roots that extend from it are dug in, otherwise the rhizome may rot.
Anubias graceful is propagated by dividing the rhizome. It is divided into parts with 3-5 leaves. Leafless pieces are left in water until leaves appear and roots form.

Anubias barteri

Habitat – Central and West Africa. Anubias barteri is a shade-loving plant, found along the banks of streams, rivers, swamps, which are full of water during the rainy season.
The leaves of Anubias barteri are asymmetrical, fused into a rosette, different shades of green, thick, glossy on top, and velvety below. At the base of the leaf cordate, covered with white spots. Leaf blade up to 10 cm long, 5 cm wide. On the underside of the leaves, the main vein is clearly expressed, forming a rib. Lateral veins are not noticeable. Cuttings are slightly longer or flush with the leaf. Rhizome is thick, creeping, sometimes branched. Adventitious roots are deeply embedded in the soil. The height of Anubias Barteri varies from 25 to 30 cm.
Anubias Barteri, like many other species of Anubias, grows rather slowly. Tall plants are planted in an aquarium one by one, short ones – in a group. Anubias feels good underwater. The plant can also be grown in a paludarium. Thanks to its hard leaves, Anubias Barteri is not afraid of herbivorous fish.

Anubias Barteri should be maintained at the following ideal temperatures: 24-28C, pH 6.4–7.8, hardness 2–15. It’s necessary to change the water frequently. lighting that is diffused. Birch charcoal can be added to sand or coarse-grained soil to facilitate the roots of the plant. The propagation of Anubias barterii occurs through daughter plants that develop from the rhizome buds.

Barteri Anubias var."Diverse"

Refers to decorative forms of Anubias Barteri, which are distinguished by the presence of bright light, sometimes even white bald spots on the leaves.
There is no unambiguous interpretation of the origin of such a pattern. Some experts argue that this is the result of selection, while others believe that the plant is infected with a virus. In any case, this color of the leaves does not have a negative effect on the development of Anubias, moreover, it gives it a bright individuality.
Anubias variegated is a universal plant, equally suitable for cultivation in aquariums, and for growing in a greenhouse or paludarium. Although the size of the plant is quite modest, it is still better to provide it with a spacious aquarium, at least 40 cm in height. Plant variegated Anubias in the center or in the background.

Anubias dwarf Bonsai (Anubias barteri var. nana Bonsai)

Anubias Bonsai

Anubias nana was selected to produce this variety. The "Bonsai" variety of Anubias nana has far fewer leaves, measuring only 2.5 cm in length and 1.5 cm in width. The leaves are ovoid and either light or dark green. There is a weak root system. The Anubias is only 4 cm in size. Its small size makes it simple to use for decorating nano-aquariums, even ones with volumes of five to ten liters.

Anubias Bonsai

Planting the plant in clusters of three to five bushes along the side walls or in the foreground is preferable. When CO2 is added to the water, they react favorably, and their growth is somewhat accelerated. It can grow on driftwood as well as in the ground. Excessive lighting should be avoided to prevent yellowing of the Anubias "Bonsai" leaves.

Golden Anubias (Anubias barteri var. nana Golden)

Anubias goldengolden

An additional form of anubias nana selection. One characteristic that sets the leaf apart is its color. They have a light golden hue when the plant is young, but as it grows, it turns light green. The bush measures around 10 centimeters on average. Growth is incredibly sluggish. Ideal for putting plants in the aquarium’s foreground. Avoid burying the roots too deeply as this may cause them to rot. Using small gravel as a soil is preferable.

You’ll need to play around with the light a little to find the right combination of brightness and exposure that will highlight the bush’s golden hue to the fullest without causing an algal bloom. It won’t be unnecessary to feed with carbon dioxide and mineral fertilizers. It is possible to see flowering under the right circumstances.

Anubias barteri var. glabra

Anubias glabra

Anubias glabra inhabits the biotope of Central and Western Africa. grows next to river and stream banks. able to survive both above and below the water.

The aquarium’s size can go up to 30 centimeters. The leaf’s petiole is lengthy, thick, and incredibly strong. The green leaf blade is lanceolate-ovate or narrow-ellipsoid in shape. It is roughly 12 cm long and up to 6 cm wide. The tip of the leaf is pointed. Pigment spots can appear on leaves and shoots. The rhizome is creeping and dense, growing up to 8 mm thick.

Anubias glabra

Growth is modest, often producing no more than six leaves annually. Advisable for use in the aquarium’s background and center. thickets that are dense and spread out. Regular water changes and effective filtration are essential. The plant may be harmed by algae fouling.

While bright lighting is not ideal, it is preferable to note that daylight lasts for eight to twelve hours. Fit for cultivation in a paludarium. propagated through rhizome division.

Anubias barteri var. “Coffeefolia”)

The resemblance of this anubias’ leaves to those of the coffee tree gave rise to its name. Habitat: Gabon, Nigeria, Konogo, etc.

Possesses a thick, creeping rhizome. The leaves are gathered into an uneven, slightly ribbed rosette. The sheet plate has an oval-elliptical shape and can be up to 12 cm long by 6 cm wide. Early leaves are reddish-brown, but as they age, they turn dark green. In an aquarium, coffee anubias typically reach a height of 15 cm. Perfect for the center position in an aquarium. Its growth is characterized by slowness, just like other anubias. It can be stored in paludariums and greenhouses.

Remember to change the water and maintain adequate filtration. a comfortable 22–26 degree Celsius water temperature. It is not recommended to use bright lighting; instead, diffuse the light.

Mineral fertilizers work well for anubias, and the soil should be silted. divided the rhizome to reproduce. You can let leafless sections float until the first buds appear.

Anubias barteri var. Angustifolia

This plant was thought to be a distinct species until recently, but research has revealed that it is actually just one of Anubias Barter’s varieties, even though it looks very different from the basic form. features elongated leaves that form a decorative outlet, growing to a length of 10 to 15 cm. The sheet has a matte bottom with a green tint, and a slightly wavy upper part with a glossy shine and dark green color. Because the subsidiaries emerge very close to the mother, the bushes are extremely dense.

The middle or back of the aquarium must be planted. Growth of Anubias is slow. propagated through rhizome use. The terms of content are generally the same as those found in Anubias Barter.

Anubias giant (Anubias Gigantea)

It’s obvious from the name that this is a mega-lopuh. This is the largest anubias that aquariums have to offer. The plant grows into a massive bush with up to 30 leaves that are between 80 and 100 centimeters in size.

You need at least a 500-liter aquarium to accommodate the anubias. Like other anubas, it grows slowly; typically, two to four leaves appear annually. Growing in a paludarium, "drying" does not adapt well to sudden total immersion; therefore, a gradual transition from the air form to the water is required.

The rhizome should stay above the soil’s surface when planting. This kind of anubias favors water with little suspended matter and little organic matter. As transplants may have a detrimental effect on the giant anubias’ health, it is preferable to plant the plant in a location that has been carefully considered.

Anubias Gilletii

Tropical African countries make up the habitat biotope. It grows relatively large in the wild, but in an aquarium, it usually gets smaller. Feels better in greenhouses and paludariums; not ideal for maintaining aquariums. Most of the time, an aquarium grows it out of its natural habitat.

Anubias can grow in an aquarium with little light requirements because they can withstand long periods of shade. When the right circumstances are present, the plant will begin to flower, producing blossoms with a diameter of up to 3 cm on long peduncles. Though it is rare to cultivate a species with the required traits, seeds can be collected.

Aspect Details
Common Name Anubias
Type Freshwater plant
Origin West Africa
Light Requirements Low to moderate
Water Conditions Warm and slightly acidic
Growth Rate Slow
Size Small to medium
Care Level Easy
Ideal Placement Attached to rocks or driftwood
Benefits Provides shelter for fish, reduces algae

Anubias plants are an excellent option for novice and experienced aquarium gardeners alike. They are perfect for a range of aquarium setups due to their resilience and low maintenance needs. Whether you’re building a brand-new tank or just want to add some foliage to an existing one, Anubias offers a lush, organic appearance that makes your aquatic environment look even more beautiful.

Anubias’s versatility is one of its greatest advantages. It is simple to affix to rocks or driftwood because it does not require a substrate and can flourish in low light. Because of its adaptability, it can easily fit into almost any tank configuration. Furthermore, you won’t have to worry about overgrowth or frequent pruning due to its slow growth rate.

Anubias contributes not only to the aesthetic appeal of your aquarium but also to a more robust ecosystem. Its wide leaves give fish hiding places and contribute to better water quality by giving good bacteria more surfaces on which to grow. By selecting Anubias, you can be sure that your aquarium will stay balanced and vibrant with little maintenance.

Video on the topic

Snagwood with Anubias nano

ANUBIAS IN THE WILD!!!

Live aquarium plant Anubias Barteri Petit meristem

Black Algae on Anubias/Cleaning Anubias with Hydrogen Peroxide

Anubias in a greenhouse from A to Z

ALL ABOUT ANUBIAS – MAINTENANCE IN AN AQUARIUM/PALUDARIUM, PLANTING, REPRODUCTION, GROWTH, TYPES, NUANCES

Anubias 15 varieties

What part of aquarium maintenance do you consider the most difficult?
Share to friends
Ivan Kononov

Experienced aquarist with an emphasis on breeding and keeping exotic aquarium fish. Author of many articles and books on the topic of aquarium keeping. Always in search of new species and interesting solutions for home aquariums. I believe that an aquarium is not only a home decoration, but also a means of studying nature and its laws.

Rate author
InfoProekt24.com
Add a comment