Keeping a beautiful and healthy underwater world in your aquarium can be greatly impacted by selecting the correct filter. Filters are necessary to remove toxins from the water, maintain a clear and clean environment for your fish and plants, and all of the above. Selecting the ideal filter for your tank can be difficult given the wide variety of options available.

To assist you in making an informed decision, we’ll break down the various filtration system types in this guide. We’ll go over chemical, biological, and mechanical filtration, outlining the benefits each type offers for your aquarium as well as how it operates. Knowing these fundamentals will assist you in selecting a filter that meets your requirements, whether you’re installing a new tank or trying to improve your current configuration.

Every option, including sponge, canister, and hang-on-back filters, has advantages and disadvantages of its own. We’ll go over these options and provide advice on how to choose the filter that will maintain the best possible condition for your tank. Now let’s get started and choose the ideal filter to maintain the health of your aquatic ecosystem!

Filter Type	Description
Hang-On-Back (HOB)	Easy to install and maintain, hangs on the back of the tank, provides mechanical, biological, and sometimes chemical filtration.
Canister Filter	Powerful and versatile, sits outside the tank, offers multiple filtration stages, ideal for larger tanks.
Internal Filter	Submersible filter that sits inside the tank, good for smaller tanks, combines mechanical and biological filtration.
Power Filter	Usually refers to HOB filters but can include any filter with a strong motor, effective for cleaning and water movement.
Undergravel Filter	Uses a plate placed under the substrate, draws water through the gravel for filtration, can be less efficient but helps with aeration.
Fluidized Bed Filter	Specialized filter that keeps filter media in constant motion, excellent for biological filtration, good for high-biomass systems.
Protein Skimmer	Common in saltwater tanks, removes organic waste before it breaks down, crucial for maintaining water quality in marine setups.

Mechanical filters and aquarium filtration

These are the most straightforward and efficient filters for an aquarium. Their work’s straightforward goal is to remove debris and fine suspended matter from aquarium water. Mechanical filtration filters come with a sponge (foam rubber or synthetic padding) and a pump (a motor with a pump). Aquarium water is pumped by the pump and purified as it passes through the sponge. The output tube, which is often found on the pomp from above, returns the cleaned water to the aquarium. Large contaminants like food scraps, fish poop, dead organism remnants, etc. are successfully removed by this kind of filtration.

For small aquariums with a limited number of fish, a mechanical filter of this kind will work just fine.

Chemical filters and aquarium filtration

These filters offer filtration using a range of sorbents. Activated carbon is the most widely used adsorbent. Aquarium keeping makes extensive use of a variety of ion-exchange resins, including zeolites. More useful than mechanical filters are those that allow for further chemical filtration. In addition to ion-exchange resins’ ability to effectively combat poisons like ammonia, nitrites, and nitrates that are formed and progressively accumulate in any aquarium during the life of aquatic organisms, sorbents are capable of absorbing harmful chemical impurities found in water, such as chlorine and heavy metals.

Biofilters and biological filtration of the aquarium

– this is arguably the most important aquarium filtration stage. The cultivation of a nitrifying bacterial colony is its fundamental process. These bacteria grow in colonies on particular substrates, such as the pores in unfired ceramics. These bacteria break down extremely toxic ammonia into less toxic nitrite, and then nitrite into even less toxic nitrate. They are involved in the nitrification process.

Combination filters and aquarium filtration

These filters combine the functionality of multiple aquarium water filtration methods. There are filters that combine the three filtration methods mentioned above. It is important to remember, though, that even the most basic mechanical filter can be used in combination. That is to say, use aquarium carbon and an absorbent sponge together.

An excellent illustration of an aquarium’s internal filter is shown below.

ATMAN.

It is essentially a sponge placed inside a "glass." Because the glass itself is roomy, you can add more fillers to it as needed.

Let’s review what was said above. You can use a mechanical, internal filter if your aquarium is small and your fish aren’t very big. These filters are affordable, simple to use, and easy to maintain. However, our suggestion for you is to go with a combination filter that has spaces for holding substrates for biofiltration if you have a large aquarium, a lot of fish, or both. Although this type of filter is more costly and requires more maintenance, it can help you achieve biological equilibrium in your aquarium.

You should also consider an aquarium filter’s technical features before purchasing it.

– ability to adjust to Russian power systems.

However, the power of an aquarium filter is its most crucial feature. A filter’s capacity is measured by how much water it can pass through in a given amount of time. The filter packaging will typically state: 300 l./hour, 1000 l./hour; be mindful of this.

Simply look at the suggested aquarium volumes for this filter, which the manufacturers note on the packaging, such as "designed for a volume of up to 150 l," if you don’t want to bother figuring out the necessary filter capacity. This number, though, doesn’t always match reality.

The performance of filters is frequently exaggerated by manufacturers. This is because performance evaluations are conducted under nearly perfect circumstances, in clean water, without accounting for extra fillers.

As a result, we suggest that you use a filter that has a "recommended volume" mark that is much higher. That is to say, a 1000 liter per hour filter is recommended for an aquarium that holds 100 liters.

Quite an important characteristic of a filter is its "noisiness". Good aquarium filters make noise, but quietly, or do not make noise at all. Agree, you would not want to hear the roar of a motor from an aquarium at night, as if "a pack of night bikers is riding around your bed". If possible, do not buy Chinese aquarium filters or filters of unknown brands. Trade marks that have established themselves in the market try to make their products high-quality and silent. It is very difficult to recommend a specific company to you – there are many of them, and they are not always "branded". But, based on our own experience, we would like to draw your attention to Tetra, Hydor, Eheim, Aquael – a recognized combination of price and quality.

An aquarium filter’s ease of maintenance, including installation, disassembly, and the need for additional components, is a minor aspect of its technical componentry. Certain filters—even the most basic mechanical filters—have two containers, while others only have one. While some are equipped with extra nozzles for aeration, others are not. While some are simple to dismantle and clean, others require more work. As a result, when selecting the best aquarium filter available, try it out with your hands, examine the parts, and consider whether you really need them.

Let’s now discuss the topic of selecting an aquarium filter according to its placement.

AQUARIUM FILTERS CAN ALL BE SEPARATED INTO:

Internal aquarium filters

These internal filters are Tetra IN plus and Hydor Crystal, which are shown in the photo above. They function inside the aquarium and are attached. They can be mechanical, chemical, biological, or a combination of all four types of filtration.

The most well-liked filters among consumers are internal aquarium filters, which is understandable. They are inexpensive compared to external filters, and they require little upkeep. One disadvantage mentioned by some aquarium enthusiasts is that internal filters use up valuable volume inside the aquarium. This is a contentious moment, though, because the filter does not occupy one-third of the aquarium. Yes, it does require two to three liters when it is hanging quietly in the corner. This does not seem to be a very big disadvantage, especially for hobby aquariums.

The so-called airlift filters should also be a part of the inner aquarium filters. These filters work on the basis of air movement beneath the surface of the water. In an air-flowing tube, traction is created by air bubbles rising to the surface. Under the effect of this traction, water that passes through the filter material is cleaned. These filters have the benefit of combining the roles of an aerator and a filter. The sound of the murmuring water is a drawback.

The "Hamburg carpet filter" is one of the most notable built-in aquarium filter structures. Actually, depending on the kind of samp, this is a sheet of foam rubber that is 2-3 thick and occasionally even thicker than that, completely dividing the small area in the aquarium. A heater, additional aquarium equipment, and/or a pump that can pump two to three volumes of water per hour are all mounted behind the foam sheet. Such foam is chosen to have a minimal, rarely medium porosity. Foam with large pores is inappropriate. Usually with the aid of a "flute," the pump’s outlet is visible in the aquarium’s main section.

Small aquariums such as spawning tanks, nursery tanks, or quarantine tanks—where maintaining balance while maintaining a clean bottom—are the ideal applications for this design. Nitrifying bacteria are constantly resettling in the pores of the sponges, and the bottom can always be distributed.

Aquarium bottom and false filters

An internal aquarium filter with a false bottom is a unique design in which the filter elements are situated beneath the aquarium floor. The current bottom, which is covered in soil that is larger than the mesh cell on top in fractions, has a small fiber lattice affixed to it. In filters of this kind, the water passes through the ground as the initial step in the purification process. In addition, the water can be pumped back into the aquarium after passing through a number of filters and fillers.

One benefit of this kind of filtration system is that it prevents stagnant processes from growing in the ground. One drawback is that there may be a blockage that makes it more difficult to service and replace the filter elements.

External aquarium filters

Only the tubes (intake and outlet) are lowered into the aquarium; these filters are installed outside of it.

Benefits of these filters include:

– numerous purification steps using various types of filters;

– extra space for the nitrifying bacteria to settle;

– the flexibility to mix mechanical, biological, and chemical filtration;

Installing these types of aquarium filters on a 100-liter aquarium with a substantial fish stocking density makes sense. What suggestions are available for selecting an aquarium’s ideal external filter?

1. When selecting the filter for your volume, take note of its performance (l/h).

2. Examine the noise problem.

3. Assess the entire set (the number of bucket compartments, the function and accessibility of the nozzles on the set’s tubes, the flute, and whether you need to purchase any extras).

4. Which sorbent substances are in the set. What, and how much, more do you need to buy, and how do you change the filter materials?

5. Examine the problem of connecting the filter head to the bucket (how it is fastened, where the fasteners are weak, is there a chance of a leak, are the seller and manufacturer obligated to provide a warranty, etc.). There have been instances where an aquarist discovered their aquarium empty upon returning home from work, and the water that the filter had pumped out had inundated the neighbors below.

We will quickly go over the Tetra Ex and Hydor Professional series’ external filter configurations below for visual comprehension (detailed links to them were provided above, at the beginning of the article). Thus, we have Tetra Ex:

Selecting the appropriate filter during aquarium setup is essential to keeping your fish and plants in a healthy environment. The three primary categories of aquarium filters—mechanical, biological, and chemical—will be covered in this article, along with advice on which one is best for your particular tank. Find helpful advice on choosing a filter that suits the size, cost, and upkeep preferences of your aquarium, whether you’re a novice or looking to upgrade.

Here is the external filter ATMAN DF 1000

Phytofilter for aquariums. both lovely and practical.

Diagram of a phytofilter

Aquarium water can be biologically filtered with a special type of filter called a phytofilter. The roots of plants that like moisture are used in phytofilters to filter out substances that are harmful to fish.

Although a phytofilter is actually a kind of external filter, its primary benefit to users is that it is environmentally friendly. Because of the natural ability of plants to use nitrates, nitrites, and phosphates for growth—all of which are successfully supplied to the water by the vital activity of fish—water is successfully purified from harmful impurities.

Fish like discus, goldfish, cichlids, and others that don’t get along well with aquarium plants are typically kept in tanks with phytofilters. The design of the phytofilter places the plant roots inside the filter element, where they are cleaned by the aquarium water and contaminants that are bad for fish are taken out. The aquarium receives the cleaned water back. Typically, the phytofilter is positioned above the aquarium, greatly enhancing the interior design. As a result, it is possible to divide the habitats of fish and plants, leading to unique design possibilities and varied maintenance requirements.

For phytofilters, specific plants are chosen whose root systems can withstand flooding.

Additional information about the benefits and drawbacks of phytofilter design can be found in this forum thread.

Hang-on aquarium filters

Keeping a beautiful and healthy underwater world in your aquarium can be greatly impacted by selecting the correct filter. Filters are necessary to remove toxins from the water, maintain a clear and clean environment for your fish and plants, and all of the above. Selecting the ideal filter for your tank can be difficult given the wide variety of options available.

To assist you in making an informed decision, we’ll break down the various filtration system types in this guide. We’ll go over chemical, biological, and mechanical filtration, outlining the benefits each type offers for your aquarium as well as how it operates. Knowing these fundamentals will assist you in selecting a filter that meets your requirements, whether you’re installing a new tank or trying to improve your current configuration.

Every option, including sponge, canister, and hang-on-back filters, has advantages and disadvantages of its own. We’ll go over these options and provide advice on how to choose the filter that will maintain the best possible condition for your tank. Now let’s get started and choose the ideal filter to maintain the health of your aquatic ecosystem!

Filter Type	Description
Hang-On-Back (HOB)	Easy to install and maintain, hangs on the back of the tank, provides mechanical, biological, and sometimes chemical filtration.
Canister Filter	Powerful and versatile, sits outside the tank, offers multiple filtration stages, ideal for larger tanks.
Internal Filter	Submersible filter that sits inside the tank, good for smaller tanks, combines mechanical and biological filtration.
Power Filter	Usually refers to HOB filters but can include any filter with a strong motor, effective for cleaning and water movement.
Undergravel Filter	Uses a plate placed under the substrate, draws water through the gravel for filtration, can be less efficient but helps with aeration.
Fluidized Bed Filter	Specialized filter that keeps filter media in constant motion, excellent for biological filtration, good for high-biomass systems.
Protein Skimmer	Common in saltwater tanks, removes organic waste before it breaks down, crucial for maintaining water quality in marine setups.

A healthy and flourishing aquatic environment depends on selecting the appropriate aquarium filter. Making an educated choice is aided by your knowledge of the various filtration methods, including chemical, biological, and mechanical. To keep your fish happy and your tank clean, each type is essential. Chemical filters deal with toxins and impurities, biological filters use beneficial bacteria to break down dangerous substances, and mechanical filters remove physical debris.

Think about the needs of the fish in your aquarium as well as its size when choosing a filter. A canister or sump filter’s efficiency may be more advantageous for larger setups, but an internal filter alone may be adequate for smaller tanks. To make sure the filter suits both your needs and the conditions of your tank, consider its flow rate and noise level as well.

In conclusion, maintaining clear aquarium water and healthy fish requires the correct filter. You can select a filter that offers the ideal ratio of effectiveness and convenience by being aware of the various filtration options and taking into account the particular requirements of your tank. Cheers to your filtering!

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