Aquarium mosses or everything about moss

An interesting and adaptable accent to any underwater setting are aquarium mosses. These tiny, delicate plants give aquariums a hint of the natural world, resulting in a lush, colorful scene that fish and hobbyists alike enjoy. Knowing the fundamentals of aquarium mosses can help you improve the appearance and health of your tank, regardless of experience level with aquariums.

The versatility of aquarium mosses is one of their most alluring features. They are appropriate for a variety of aquariums because they can flourish in a variety of water conditions. From giving tiny fish and shrimp a place to live to assisting

Type of Moss Characteristics
Java Moss Easy to care for, great for beginners, attaches to rocks and driftwood
Christmas Moss Dense, bushy appearance, perfect for creating lush aquascapes
Flame Moss Grows in an upward spiral, adds a unique texture to the tank
Pearl Moss Forms small, round clusters, ideal for nano aquariums
Weeping Moss Cascades downward, giving a waterfall effect in the tank

Arrangement of an aquarium with mosses

Let’s stop asking novices the incorrect questions on search engines right away. Specifically: "Cladophora moss," "Black moss in an aquarium," "How to get rid of moss in an aquarium," etc. Everything listed above is referred to as algae and has nothing to do with moss. See the article "Algae in an aquarium: know your enemy by sight" for more details about algae.

It is frequently stated on the Internet that soil is not necessary when setting up an aquarium with moss. This is explained by the fact that mosses do not use the substrate as a food source and do not have roots. Mosses directly consume all nutrients and fertilizers from the water. As a result, adding soil to an aquarium that contains mosses is pointless. It is said that the soil in the aquarium only produces dirt and a suspension, which mosses dislike. The following reasons make it impossible for us to accept these arguments.

The soil in the aquarium and the house foundation are both very important! Novice aquarists frequently overlook the primary purpose of the soil, focusing only on its aesthetic qualities. Aquarium soil is an exceptional biological filter that is strong and unreplaceable.

As soon as the aquarium is opened, beneficial bacteria colonies form in the soil and begin to break down the waste products (abbreviated WBP) of aquatic life into safe compounds. The nitrogen cycle, which is the PJ’s transition cycle from ammonia to its breakdown products, nitrites and nitrates, is another name for this process.

Therefore, all biological filtration processes will be reduced or stopped in an aquarium without soil. Of course, an installed filter can be used for biological filtration, but it’s important to remember that the majority of helpful nitrifying bacteria reside in the soil, not the filter.

Consequently, high levels of ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate lead to the growth of algae, which mosses detest and which ultimately causes them to perish.

We can infer from the foregoing that an aquarium containing mosses needs to have soil.

We used the Tetra AquaArt Discover Line 60L, a previously released aquarium complex, to create an aquarium with mosses. To learn more, see the following article: From A to Z, the aquarium’s startup.

We performed all of the manipulations in this aquarium "on live," that is, without pushing the fish, snails, or shrimp. In actuality, we fixed mosses, added stones, altered the background, removed some of the previously planted plants, and removed some of the stripped soil. Therefore, I want to underline that the aquarium can be easily redeveloped without having to start from scratch. By using this method, you can reduce the harm done to the biological balance that has already been established. After all the manipulations were finished, we poured back the "old water" without cleaning the soil or filter.

In addition, it was impossible to prevent raising the suspension during the work due to mechanical turbidity.

Furthermore, the fish were naturally stressed out by the procedure itself. To mitigate these adverse effects, we also installed an internal filter with synthetic filler both during and after the work.

Filtration using mosses in an aquarium. Good filtration is a crucial component in the design of a moss pond. As mentioned earlier, mosses are intolerant of mechanical mutation and excess organic matter. The moss-filled aquarium’s water ought to be immaculate. Nevertheless, over-filtration, or blowing, is also detrimental to the health of mosses.

Tetra EX 600 Plus, an external filter, was used in this review as well as the last, and it performed flawlessly. The "flute" nozzle on this filter is a significant bonus. It is crucial to use it in an aquarium with mosses so that the water flow can be distributed evenly.

Finally, the smallest suspension was eliminated with the installation of a small internal filter and synthetic filler.

Lighting in a moss-filled aquarium. Mosses, like all other plant representatives, adore bright lighting. The mosses have a rich color and look lush when the lighting is just right. However, the majority of aquarium mosses are not extremely light-sensitive. And for that reason, even beginners can get along with them. Each aquarium has its own unique lighting requirements; generally speaking, mosses prefer light levels between 40 and 50 lm/liter. Above the aquarium shown in the review, there is an installed 45 lm/liter.

It should be noted, however, that excessively strong lighting can result in an algae outbreak, so aquarists will need to pay closer attention to this.

Global thought: moderate lighting is sufficient for moss growth.

Fertilizers for mosses in an aquarium. Mosses don’t require food from roots. All of the water’s micro and macro fertilizers are taken by them.

Not only did we use mosses in our aquarium, but we also used low-growing and delicate plants, such as anubians bonsai, blixa japonica, eleocharis parvula, eleocharis vivipara, echinodorus rubra, and cryptocoryne parva. Tetra Active Substrate and Tetra Complete Substrate, the substrate for aquarium plants, are therefore used in the aquarium.

The CO2 supply is a crucial component of moss tank arrangement. C may be the most crucial nutrient that any plant needs. It is well known that a large number of mosses can thrive in the real world without access to carbon dioxide. Nevertheless, mosses will benefit from the right concentration of CO2. Mosses will already have enough CO2 from home brew.

It’s also important to note that because mosses grow slowly, their processes for consuming fertilizer are also slow. This leads us to the conclusion that "less is more" when it comes to fertilizer usage in the moss tank. Maintain your slim figure Redfield, microdrink in small amounts two to three times a week, and CO2 without becoming obsessed.

The well-known retailer Aqua Logo Shop has everything you could possibly need for aquaristics, including fertilizers for your favorite herbalist. We advise against it!

Low-maintenance and adaptable, aquarium mosses can improve the aesthetics and well-being of your aquarium. They give your underwater habitat a lush, green appearance, naturally conceal fish, and support water quality maintenance. Knowing the different kinds, maintenance requirements, and advantages of aquarium mosses will help you establish a healthy, balanced ecosystem in your tank, regardless of your level of experience as an aquarist.

Caring for an aquarium with mosses

Suggested waterparameters: KN = 2-4, GH = 4-6, pH = 6.0–7 for the presence of mosses in the water Still, mosses adjust well to harder water. The following water parameters apply to our aquarium: pH = 7.2, gH = 8, and KH = 6.

Appropriate water changes are crucial for maintaining the moss. It is advised to change the water in herbal aquariums at least once a week, preferably twice (with a stable balance). Water changes are a personal problem; once the aquarium is up and running, you should check the results of the tests and visually evaluate the "health of the aquarium." Twice a week, we perform small water changes in our aquarium, ranging from 1/4 to 1/3.

Nowadays, taking care of mosses is easy. They are shaped and pruned as they grow. A well-chosen haircut adds a lush, branchy quality to mosses.

Types of aquarium mosses with photos and descriptions

Among the more than 10,000 species of plants, mosses make up a sizable portion. They originated more than 300 million years ago, making them the planet’s most ancient inhabitants.

Three classes comprise mosses:

Lamellar thalli are a characteristic of anthocerotae mosses.

Small and delicate are liver mosses. Riccia moss is the most well-known.

The most common class of mosses are leafy stem mosses. consists of the Andreevy, Sphagnum, and Bryevy subclasses.

We used the following kinds of mosses in our aquarium:

(Cratoneuron filicinum, Triangle Moss) is the name for triangular moss.

Lovely, modest moss with long, equilateral triangle-shaped branches. Aquarists have long recognized this species. It got its name because it grows very well to the substrate and has an intriguing triangular shape. The growth rate is average; however, growth was observed to increase in favorable conditions.

Taxophyllum sp. "Flame," also known as flame moss.

An extremely unique moss. While most mosses grow in various directions, flame moss only grows upwards, giving it a wave-like appearance that closely resembles flames. Its darker hue sets it apart from other mosses as well. indifferent to the state of maintenance. Silently endures up to a pH of 7.5 without the presence of CO2. There’s no need to use fertilizer. This moss looks good in the background as well as in the focal point of the composition, and is frequently used to create "forest landscapes."

Fissidens fontanus – Phoenix Moss

(Mount Fissidens, Phoenix).

Phoenix moss, which grows from the center outward in all directions resembling a flowing fountain, gets its name from the fact that it resembles a frozen fountain. You can accurately mimic an aquarium hummock with its assistance.

Phoenix, like the majority of mosses, can thrive in an aquarium with little light and almost no additional CO2 fertilizers, including micro and macro fertilizers. There is little growth occurring. With its rhizoids to stones and driftwood, it grows well.

Moss from Java (Vesicularia dubyana).

The most widely used and common moss. utterly modest, with no requirements for water or lighting parameters. It can grow on driftwood, stones, and other surfaces in addition to the soil, giving your indoor pond’s landscape a distinctive and one-of-a-kind look.

Known as Vesicularia montagnei, Christmas moss

Christmas moss is one of the most popular mosses in aquariums, along with Java moss. Its more branched structure, resembling a Christmas tree, sets it apart from Java moss and gives rise to its name. Christmas moss is not as branched and is very difficult to distinguish from Java moss when it is grown under unfavorable conditions (low lighting, no CO2, micro and macro fertilizers, high dH, infrequent water changes). Like other aquarium mosses, Christmas moss is generally unassuming.

Mosses for aquarium decoration

Mosses in aquariums are beautiful and useful accents to any setup. They give your aquarium a more attractive appearance while also giving fish and invertebrates a natural habitat. Mosses are comparatively easy to care for and can flourish in a variety of water conditions, making them suitable for both novice and seasoned aquarists.

There are several varieties of these plants, and each has a different texture and growth pattern. There is a kind of moss for every aquarium setup, ranging from the widely used Java moss to the more delicate Christmas moss. Because they provide fry and other small species with safe hiding places, mosses are especially helpful in breeding tanks.

You can create a lush, green environment that improves the general health of your aquarium by learning about the requirements of the moss you have chosen, such as light and water quality. With a little caution

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Elena Grishina

Ecologist and aquarist with a special interest in creating balanced ecosystems in aquariums. Main focus — ecosystems that require minimal human intervention. I support a natural approach to aquarium care, where each element plays its role, helping to maintain harmony in a closed ecosystem. I promote sustainable aquarium keeping and respect for nature.

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