Black Neon (Hyphessobrycon herbertaxelrodi)

*Hyphessobrycon herbertaxelrodi*, the scientific name for the Black Neon Tetra, is a visually striking addition to any aquarium. Aquarists love it for its vivid colors and shimmering black stripe. This fish is a great option for both novice and seasoned fish keepers due to its hardy nature and ease of maintenance, despite its delicate appearance.

Originating from Brazil’s rivers, the Black Neon flourishes in a soft, slightly acidic tank that is well-planted. Being a calm species, it’s ideal for community aquariums, where its darting movements and vibrant contrasts with the underwater scenery make it easy to spot them darting around in small schools.

Everything you need to know about taking care of Black Neon Tetras will be covered in this article, including how to set up their tanks properly and what to feed and breed them. Read on for all the important information, whether you’re thinking about getting some for your tank or you just want to know more about this unusual species.

Characteristic Description
Scientific Name Hyphessobrycon herbertaxelrodi
Common Name Black Neon Tetra
Size Up to 4 cm (1.5 inches)
Tank Size Minimum 20 liters (5 gallons)
Water Temperature 22-28°C (72-82°F)
pH Level 5.5-7.5
Lifespan Up to 5 years
Diet Omnivore, enjoys flakes, pellets, and live foods
Behavior Peaceful, great for community tanks

Habitat and Range

River Basin of Paraguay, South America.

This species is widely distributed in the Brazilian states of Mato Grosso and Mato Grosso do Sul, upper Paraguay, and both north and south of the enormous Pantanal tropical wetland reserve.

There are specimens from the upper Rio Sepotuba near Tangara da Serra, roughly 700 kilometers to the north, so it is assumed that this species occurs in other areas in between. It inhabits the Rio Tacuari, but the data seems limited.

Numerous fish species found in the upper Paraguay and Pantanal can be found in the upper Rio Guaporé basin, which is also known as Itenez in Bolivia. The latter has its source in the Pantanal but flows towards Paraguay in the opposite direction. It is a part of the upper basin of the Rio Madeira, a major tributary of the Amazon basin, and the two watersheds are linked by the annual wet season’s rise in water levels.

It appears to favor headwaters, oxbow lakes, small, slowly flowing tributaries, and floodplains that are periodically flooded.

It has been caught, for instance, in tiny streams that feed into Mato Grosso State’s upper Rio Sepotuba, a tributary of the upper Rio Paraguay. These include tributaries that are several meters wide, have dense coastal vegetation, and clear, light-brown water. Aquatic plants, such as those belonging to the genera Eleocharis and Echinodorus, grow densely in some areas.

Description

The body is elongated, short, and has a slightly flattened side. Three lobes make up the caudal fin.

The back is olive, the abdomen light silvery. At the gill covers, there are two burning stripes that end at the tail in a tiny golden-green patch. The upper one has a bluish tint, is lighter, shiny, and narrower. The bottom one is blurred at the lower edge and is wider, nearly black.

The iris of the eye’s upper portion is red. With the exception of the dorsal, which has a reddish tint, all fins are transparent and have a yellowish tint. An adipose fin exists.

Size:

The female can grow up to 40 mm, while the male can only reach up to 35 mm.

Behavior and compatibility

They are incredibly calm, which makes them the perfect residents of a carefully selected aquarium community.

Active schooling fish that get along well with any kind of chainmail catfish, corydoras, cherry barbs, cardinals, and peaceful dwarf cichlids. Although a neighborhood containing newts and shrimp will also prosper, it is preferable to decline cooperative maintenance involving platidoras, fringed catfish, and aquarium crayfish.

Purchase as many as you can in quantities of ten or more, as these quantities will result in fish that are livelier, less timid, more frequently visible, better-colored, and behave more naturally.

Aquarium

It is best to keep a group of these fish, so an aquarium with a basic size of 80 * 30 cm and a capacity of 80 liters is required.

Looks best with a design made up of driftwood, roots, and branches, or dense plant thickets. Echinodorus, Cryptocorynes, and Thai fern are the best plants to use; however, areas should be left unoccupied for swimming.

Plants floating on the water’s surface can help muffle the bright light that scares fish, which is why overhead lighting should be diffused.

Water parameters:

In the range of 22 to 28 °C pH range: 5.0 to 7.5 Hardness: 5 – 15 ° dGH

Aeration and a filter are preferred. The water should be old and should only be slightly changed—roughly one-fifth twice a month.

Food

In the wild, they eat algae, tiny crustaceans and invertebrates, insects, and the larvae of those insects that sink to the water’s surface.

Omnivorous fish can thrive in aquariums on a diet of dry food, but like most fish, they prefer a varied diet, which in this case includes frozen and live food.

Sexual Dimorphism

Men are somewhat smaller and slimmer. The pre-spawning phase is when the differences are most noticeable: the females at this time become noticeably rounder, and the male’s black stripe covers the entire caudal fin and partially extends to the anal.

Reaches 8–11 months of sexual maturity.

Breeding

The process of breeding is very intricate. The best time to go is in the spring and summer, when there is an abundance of live food available. Two weeks of settled water are poured to a depth of 20 cm in a spawning tank that holds 15 to 20 liters. Pre-washed Ceylon fern and cryptocorynes are then added, along with a separator net.

The spawning tank’s water parameters are 26–28 °C, 2–12 dH, and 6.2–6.6 pH.

The largest female and two to three active males are chosen and put in different containers for spawning. The breeders are not fed the day before spawning. Usually, spawning starts early the following day. The female can lay between 100 and 200 tiny, transparent eggs each day. Adult fish are removed from the aquarium and it is fully darkened after spawning.

Incubation lasts for 24 to 48 hours. The larvae can swim and feed on rotifers and ciliates on days four and five. As they develop, dry food and Artemia nauplii are added. The spawning tank with fry should always contain small amounts of food. More often than with adult fish, water changes are made. Installing a sprayer with gentle airflow and dim lighting is advised.

Although fry grow quickly, during the first few weeks they spend all of their time hiding among plant leaves. After three weeks, the fish develop the two longitudinal stripes that identify adult fish. Fry at this stage can be put into a regular aquarium as long as the water temperature stays above 25 °C.

An aquarium’s lifespan is roughly five years.

With their stunning appearance and exceptional resilience, black neon tetras make an excellent addition to any freshwater aquarium. They stand out in any tank thanks to their eye-catching black and white stripes and faint neon glow.

These fish are an excellent addition to community tanks because they are gregarious, peaceful, and thrive in groups. Because they require little maintenance, both novice and seasoned aquarists can enjoy them.

You can benefit from the presence of these interesting fish for many years by maintaining a well-maintained habitat with ideal water conditions. They are a delightful species to look after and observe because they add life and vibrancy to your aquarium.

A popular fish for freshwater aquariums, the Black Neon (Hyphessobrycon herbertaxelrodi) is a small, hardy fish that stands out with its striking black and white horizontal stripes. It is the perfect addition to a community tank due to its calm disposition and ability to adapt to different water conditions. Its lively swimming style also gives the aquatic environment more life and movement.

Video on the topic

THE UNAPPRECIATED AND CLASSIC BLACK NEON TETRA (Hyphessobrycon Herbertaxelrodi) | 4K

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Anton Popov

A professional aquarist with over 15 years of experience. Main specialization - marine aquariums and creating optimal conditions for keeping rare species of fish and corals. I am fond of aquascaping, actively participate in international competitions. I love to share knowledge and experience to help others create the beauty of the underwater world at home.

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