Marimo moss balls, or Cladophora spheroides, are an unusual and fascinating addition to any aquarium. These tiny, spherical plants give your tank a natural and intriguing focal point in addition to adding a little greenery.
They are a great option for both novice and seasoned aquarists because they are simple to maintain. These moss balls can flourish in a variety of water conditions with little upkeep, giving your underwater environment a touch of mystery and beauty.
To keep Cladophora spheroides healthy and lively in your aquarium for many years to come, we’ll look at the best maintenance and care techniques in this article.
Appearance
Within the Cladophora family, Cladophora spheroides is a colony of microscopic green algae that resembles aquatic moss. It’s a uniformly shaped, dark green ball with a surface structure resembling felt.
The alga was first identified as Cladophora aegagropila in literature, but in 2002, following a second identification, it was given the name Aegagropila linnaei in honor of naturalist Carl Linnaeus. Hence, Aegagropila linnaei is another name for it. However, freshwater algae are also known by a variety of other colloquial terms, including "mossy ball," "ball moss," and marimo in Japanese, which translates to "bouncing ball made of plants." Another moniker for Cladophora in Japan was "lake ghost." There are two other kinds of cladophora found in seawater: whitish and wandering.
Aegagropila favors reservoirs with chilly water and a gentle current in the wild. Because of its rounded form, it can flow with the water and ensures that photosynthesis will continue unhindered.
Since Cladophora is found all over the Eurasian continent, it has been studied extensively. Australia and the Japanese islands have also been reported to have this type of algae. In the wild, the balls can grow up to 30 cm in diameter, depending on the weather. The largest colonies were found in Japan’s Lake Akanko.
Watch the fish as it interacts with Cladophora:
The typical diameter of a ball in an aquarium is between 5 and 10 cm. Aegagropila grows between 0.2 and 1 cm year on average. The algae inside the ball initially form a kind of frame, but as the colony grows, the frame is replaced by an empty cavity, and the structure resembles that of a ball. You can see annual growth rings if you cut the ball.
During the day, Cladophora spheroides moves around the aquarium without adhering to the substrate.
- During the day, the balls lie on the bottom and accumulate oxygen, the bubbles of which are held among the threads.
- After the end of daylight hours, they float to the surface, and when the oxygen is completely used up, the cladophora sinks again.
An attribute of algae is their propensity for longevity. Aegagropyla can live for up to 200 years in ideal conditions.
Cladophora spheroides in an aquarium
Cladophora is used by aquarists in more ways than just as an aquascape component. The plant carries out several beneficial tasks, including:
- serves as an additional source of oxygen;
- is a natural filter, since it passes a large amount of water through itself, and, traveling around the aquarium, retains suspended matter, organic deposits, and remains of uneaten food;
- among its threads, the simplest microorganisms develop, serving as a starting food for fish fry and small crustaceans;
- thin threads of aegagropile like to clean from deposits shrimps.
The algae is only appropriate for aquariums containing fish that prefer cold water because of its tendency to disintegrate at high temperatures.
The Marimo moss ball, or Cladophora spheroides, is a distinctive and low-maintenance addition to any aquarium that thrives in cool, dark water. This aquatic plant is an excellent option for both novice and expert aquarists because it requires little maintenance other than frequent water changes and gentle rolling to keep its spherical shape.
Features of maintenance
The aquarium’s ideal conditions must be set up in order to maintain the growth and beauty of the algae. In the absence of this, the spherical cladophora will start to break apart and lose its shape.
Aegagropile is fond of chilly water. Elevating the temperature above 18–20°C promotes rapid growth, and the algae loses its spherical shape in two to three months. The ball splits into pieces after first creeping to the sides. Consequently, cladophora can only be kept in an aquarium with warm water (above 22ºΡ) for a maximum of one and a half months if the design idea calls for it. After that, stabilization and rehabilitation in a cold-water tank will be necessary for a month.
Hydrochemical parameters are subject to specific requirements imposed by the mossy ball. Soft water is required. The ball breaks apart when the hardness increases. The water’s active reaction ought to be almost neutral.
The algae can tolerate a 5 ppm concentration and does not lose viability in brackish water.
Since cladophora prefer clean water, filtration and frequent replacements (up to 30% weekly) are essential.
Since the algae lack a root system, the substrate’s quality and presence are irrelevant. It doesn’t matter how big the aquarium is either.
Moderately bright with a hint of dimness. The balls will be stimulated to rise to the surface by bright light.
Cladophora doesn’t need any extra nourishment. It has enough nutrients because the water provides them. The balls break down and individual threads can clog the filter system if the requirements are not met.
The spherical pantry is independent of other plants and does not put them in competition. As such, it can be kept in any species that has comparable maintenance requirements.
Also read:
- kissing gourami;
- gyrinocheilus;
- giant shrimp.
Care of spherical cladophora
The balls develop a coating over time due to the aquatic organisms’ essential activity. Here, they are removed from the aquarium and given a quick rinse under running water. Squeezing the ball firmly is not advised as this may cause it to grow more slowly and change structurally.
Aegagropila has the ability to change color, which is always a bad sign:
- If the color has faded, it means that the lighting is too strong and the ball needs to be moved to a dark place to restore.
- Paleness or yellowing of one side – lack of light. The algae should be turned over to the other side.
- If it has become brown – the level of organic pollution is too high. The ball is washed in water or temporarily placed in a container with slightly salted water.
Dead pieces of cladophora that are spherical are taken out of the aquarium when they start to rot and turn black. And robust fragments will sprout a new colony.
Reproduction
Aegagropyla can only be reproduced by vegetative means. There are two ways that this can occur. Partitioning the colony mechanically is the first method.
The second is to set up the circumstances so that the balls break down naturally. To achieve this, raise the aquarium’s temperature to 24-26°C and raise the water hardness level to a level of 24. After the ball breaks apart, the pieces are put in a different vessel with ideal conditions inside—between 18 and 20 degrees Celsius—and clean water. Following this, a drawn-out process that could take up to two years to form a new colony will start.
| Aspect | Details |
| Lighting | Moderate to low; avoid direct sunlight |
| Water Temperature | 18-28°C (64-82°F) |
| Water pH | 6.5-7.5 |
| Water Hardness | Soft to moderately hard |
| Tank Size | Any size; suitable for small tanks |
| Substrate | Not required; can be free-floating |
| Care Level | Easy; low maintenance |
| Propagation | By dividing the ball into smaller pieces |
Maintaining Cladophora spheroides is easy and pays off. This unusual algae is good for keeping an ecosystem in balance and lends a touch of natural beauty to any aquarium.
You can take advantage of its practical and aesthetic benefits with little effort. To keep it healthy and vibrant, just make sure you give it the proper lighting, water conditions, and sporadic maintenance.
Cladophora spheroides can be a wonderful addition to your tank, improving its appearance and aiding in the upkeep of your aquarium, whether you’re an experienced or novice aquarist.
