Echinodorus major

Family Alismataceae. Homeland: Brazil’s eastern states in South America.

Among the most exquisite water plants. A loose rosette is formed by long, wavy, hard, light green leaves. Good examples grow to be 70–80 cm tall, so the plant needs to be housed in a container that is at least 45–50 cm high. It should be positioned nearer the aquarium’s back and center walls, keeping in mind that the plant takes up a sizable amount of space. This kind of Echinodorus never forms air leaves and grows year-round in an aquarium. It is hard on the maintenance conditions. It is highly favored by aquarists.

Echinodorus prefers water that is between 22 and 28 °C. The plant grows more slowly at temperatures below 22 °C, so it is better suited for a tropical aquarium. Although 6–12° is the ideal water hardness range, the plant can survive in water that is harder. This echinodorus practically rejects very soft water. With a pH between 7 and 8.5, the active reaction should be neutral or slightly alkaline. Under acidic conditions, the plant withers rapidly. The water in the aquarium should be changed frequently, and it should be as pure as one-sixth to one-fifth of the total volume.

Echinodorus major requires well-lit areas. It is preferable to utilize just the upper light to create a lovely bush. More lateral lighting causes the bush to spread out and become sparser. Furthermore, lateral daughter plants start to grow, which stops the mother bush from growing.

For Echinodorus, natural lighting is very beneficial. The color of the leaves is more vibrant when the aquarium receives two to three hours of sunlight each day. The best choice for artificial lighting is an LB type fluorescent lamp, which has a power of roughly 0.5 W per liter of aquarium volume. While more light from incandescent bulbs slightly enhances the color of the leaves, it has no discernible effect on growth. Svet days last between 12 and 14 hours.

A large echinodorus needs rich soil that contains an adequate amount of silt. It is essential to add a lump of clay or a mixture of clay and peat to the newly created soil beneath the plant’s roots. Charcoal should also be added in a certain quantity. The plant needs a thick layer of soil, at least 8 to 10 cm, because its root system is very strong. It is not recommended to use sand or tiny pebbles as a substrate.

This echinodorus benefits greatly from a mineral top dressing, particularly when it’s flowering. You can use fertilizers that are complex and contain all the elements that plants require. It is sufficient to add 10–15 milliliters of liquid mineral fertilizer per 100 liters of water once a week when using liquid mineral fertilizers like Vito or Rodnichok-2. It is essential to routinely (roughly twice a month) add divalent iron salts to the water, with 0.1 mg per liter, in addition to the microelements found in the fertilizers.

Echinodorus major primarily reproduces vegetatively; seed propagation is rarely successful in artificial environments. The plant often yields flower stalks throughout the year, but nearly never develops into complete seeds. The odds of artificial pollination with a gentle brush are marginally improved. When the fruits are completely ripe, they are removed. Additionally, some experts suggest drying the seeds for one to two months. Subsequently, they are planted in a sand-filled bowl that has been kept wet and at 28 °C.

It should be submerged if the peduncle’s fruits haven’t set yet. Daughter plants will then undoubtedly emerge on the flower stalk, which can be cut off once the root system and four to five leaves have formed. Young plants should be positioned directly under the light in separate bowls with water just covering the leaves. A well-formed rosette of leaves that is 15 to 18 cm high should form before separating the daughter plants; this is even better when you press the entire arrow to the ground close to the light source.

If an aquarist has succeeded in achieving flowering on Echinodorus major, they must remember that the mother bush’s condition deteriorates after a flower stalk forms, particularly after daughter plants appear on it. Smaller and more slowly forming are the new leaves. The plant’s appearance deteriorates during this time, despite even complete additional feeding. Therefore, even in the strongest and largest plants, you should not permit the formation of multiple flower stalks.

Daughter plants occasionally develop on the rhizome of Echinodorus major. When side lighting is sufficiently bright, this frequently occurs. These shoots grow considerably more quickly than plants on flower stalks. Once they develop their own independent root system and big leaves, they can be divided. They take up their new environment very well and grow rapidly. The mother bush continues to grow even when new plants sprout on the rhizome.

  • Category of the entry: Aquarium plants from A to Z / Plants for the aquarium – E

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Large, lush leaves set Echinodorus major apart as a visually arresting aquarium plant that works well in both novice and expert setups. This plant adds a vibrant, natural look to any tank and is easy to grow and maintain in a variety of conditions. Because Echinodorus major can adapt to different water parameters and light levels, it not only makes your aquarium look beautiful but also helps keep your fish in a healthy environment. This plant is a great option whether you want to add a little greenery or make your tank healthier overall.

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Ivan Kononov

Experienced aquarist with an emphasis on breeding and keeping exotic aquarium fish. Author of many articles and books on the topic of aquarium keeping. Always in search of new species and interesting solutions for home aquariums. I believe that an aquarium is not only a home decoration, but also a means of studying nature and its laws.

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