How to transport fish?

Fish transportation can be a delicate task that needs to be planned and executed with great care. It’s crucial to reduce their stress and keep them safe during the trip, whether you’re moving them to a new house, picking them up from the store, or moving them for another reason.

Fish are highly responsive to environmental changes, including variations in light, temperature, and water quality. A quick trip can become stressful if it’s not managed well. The way you prepare your fish and the container they are in during transportation can have a significant impact on their health.

You can make sure your fish reach their destination calm and healthy by following a few easy steps and using the appropriate technique. Here’s what you should know to ensure the smoothest possible travel for them.

General requirements for transportation

There are general, universal requirements that help lower fish injuries and stress for all kinds of cases and moves. These are as follows:

First guideline. Every fish ought to be robust, young, and healthy. This makes sense, as elderly or ill people might not be able to make it through the trip. The fish’s natural coloring, straightened fins, and fluid movement are indicators of its health.

Rule number two. Fish that range in length from 1.5 to 4 cm are thought to be the best for transport. Smaller stocking rates (i.e., fewer fish in each container) correspond with larger individual fish. Here’s an approximation of the calculation: It is acceptable to keep 5-7 two-centimeter fish in 1 liter of water. Fry and adults should not be grouped together.

Rule three. Fish feeding is strictly prohibited on public roads. It is also advised that they go on a hunger strike the day before the trip.

Rule number four. The fish should be placed in clean, cool water two to three hours prior to departure. This will increase the intestinal peristalsis of the aquarium’s occupants and expedite emptying. The water should be two to three degrees colder than usual. By taking these precautions in addition to the earlier ones, you can reduce water pollution while traveling and prevent fish kills.

Rule number five. Just before the trip, put the fish in the transport containers. Water from the permanent aquarium they inhabited should be taken. The container’s two thirds should be filled with oxygen.

Rule six. The container needs to be darkened if it is transparent. The fish won’t be as afraid as a result.

Types of transportation

The following classification was not discovered in any sources. After reading and examining every piece of information available on the subject, we put it together ourselves. We would appreciate any additional information or arguments from you, dear readers; we look forward to hearing from you. Thus, what took place was:

Depending on how long the journey takes.

Brief. can go on for one to three hours. Transparent containers with smooth edges, like thermoses, cans, and canisters, are the best choice for this kind of transportation. It is necessary to shade them. Since their metabolism slows down in this situation, the fish use less oxygen.

Fish with a body length of no more than 8–10 cm should be placed in each liter of water. We precisely attribute the increase in stocking density for this kind of transportation to its short-term nature, when compared to general requirements. The water temperature is chosen specifically for each fish and situation.

Long-range. A foam box filled with a multi-layered polyethylene bag serves as the ideal container. Special consideration is given to the amount of oxygen present. Larger fish may suffer both physically and psychologically from such movements, whereas smaller fish can withstand them more easily. We won’t linger on this topic here because we will discuss long-term transportation in greater detail later.

It depends on the season.

In a warm climate. Fish from warm water should be transported better. You can take extra containers with cold water as replacements to lower the temperature. Pieces of ice can be added if it’s frozen. You can use hand bulbs with a sprayer at the end or battery-operated microcompressors to add oxygen to the water.

It is preferable to transport cold-water fish during cold weather (winter). The container can be covered with a foam cover, dense fabric, felt, newspaper, etc. to maintain the water’s temperature.

Based on the mode of transportation.

  1. By car.
  2. By train.
  3. On the plane. The containers for such transportation should be spacious and loosely pumped with oxygen (so as not to burst with pressure drops).

Veterinary records are necessary if the fish are to be transported overseas.

The Veenadzor, or Sanitary and Epidemiological Services, contains information on what they are, how to get them, and where to find them. You must, of course, complete this beforehand.

Depending on the unique qualities of each fish.

  • if the fish have skin or pulmonary respiration, then they are transported in a humid environment with a small amount of water (wet grass, etc. p.);
  • if the fish have labyrinth breathing, they are transported in a mixture of oxygen and water 3:1;
  • if the fish have sharp spines, they are placed in three-layer bags lined with parchment paper.

Let’s now examine the most typical transportation scenarios in greater detail.

How to transport fish from the store?

The fish must be carried home after purchase. Such a trip typically takes three hours or less. However, even in this instance, aquarists—particularly novices—do not know or do not consider how to accomplish this with the least amount of stress on the fish. What is appropriate for a vehicle?

A standard jar. Fish that has been purchased can be brought home in a glass jar from the store. For the fish, this is very handy, but not so much for the person transporting it. To keep the container from breaking, you must protect it. This is a good approach if the trip takes no longer than forty minutes.

Pour two thirds of the water into the jar. It is sufficient to cover the jar with a thick towel and put it in a bag if the weather is not too cold. This ensures a constant water temperature for a duration of 20 minutes. A tiny jar can be tucked into the inside pocket of clothing if the weather is really chilly. If the quantity is greater than what can be handled, it needs to be wrapped in woolen cloth and put in a box, suitcase, or bag that has a heating pad inside of it.

Polymer-based bag. Transport from the store is typically done in a cellophane wrapper. However, regular bags aren’t appropriate because they can tear easily, leak, and have areas in the corners where fish can hide and suffer. You can purchase unique, sturdy containers with rounded edges at pet stores. You pour no more than a quarter into them. The compressor air compresses and pumps the upper edges. The elastic band can be pulled through the package’s top.

How to produce bought fish into an aquarium?

You are by no means incapable of doing this! Fish farmers with experience suggest putting a tied bag in a quarantine aquarium and letting the water temperature in both areas slowly rise to equal levels. Subsequently, the bag is opened and some aquarium water is transferred inside.

This process is carried out multiple times while closely monitoring the fish’s condition. The process should be stopped if they feel ill. The fish can be released once the aquarium water in the bag has filled up more than half, assuming everything is in order.

Using your hand instead of a net is preferable when fishing it out because there is less chance of injury. Alternatively, you could flip the bag so the fish come out of it on their own.

It is preferable to quarantine new pets for two weeks before introducing them to the main aquarium. Turning on the light and moving around the aquarium unnecessarily is not recommended during this time.

How to transport an aquarium with fish?

The aquarium may occasionally need to be moved to a different room or even apartment. Furthermore, the process becomes more challenging the larger the aquarium. Online resources offer detailed guides for planning the transportation of an aquarium. The following can be the overall course of action. It’s essential to get ready:

  • a net for catching fish;
  • bags or plastic buckets with tight-fitting lids (the choice of container depends on the size and number of fish);
  • separate containers for transporting water, soil, plants;
  • packaging materials for the aquarium itself;
  • settled water.

Transporting all of the aquarium’s water is not feasible.

They frequently do this: they move 70–80% of the water to the new location, and they siphon off and bring the remaining 20–30% from the old aquarium.

Furthermore, it’s critical to draft a concise action plan, such as:

  1. Check whether everything necessary is prepared.
  2. Siphon the soil. Drain the turbid water. Collect 20-30 percent clean water and pour into containers.
  3. Remove plants, decorations, equipment.
  4. Catch the fish. If they will be in the containers for transportation for 30 minutes or more, it is advisable to organize aeration there.
  5. Remove the soil and stones. Do not wash them! Otherwise, in the absence of organic matter in the new aquarium, biobalance will not be established. You can transport all of this in a bucket. It is not advisable to leave it in the aquarium, since the weight of the soil is quite large, and the bottom of the aquarium may not withstand this weight.
  6. Wash the aquarium (without using chemicals) and pack it to prevent damage and chips. Pay special attention to the corners and the front glass. If the home pond is small, then you can protect the walls with cardboard + tape, place it in a box of the appropriate size and additionally fill it with paper from the inside. If the volume is large (for example, office aquariums), then it is preferable to order the service from a special service. There they will pack it correctly and transport it on special transport. Of course, it is advisable for the owner of the aquarium to monitor this.
  7. Move as quickly as possible. The less time it takes, the better.
  8. Install the aquarium in a new place.

To a greater extent, everything mentioned above also applies when moving an aquarium to a different apartment. It’s not always required to empty the container entirely within the same room. If it has a cabinet underneath, you can easily move the aquarium to a different location if you have strong hands. This method is inappropriate if there is no support because the bottom will break. Consider the following scenario: you can just move by removing some of the water, which will lessen your weight.

How to transport fish over long distances?

It is occasionally necessary to transport fish to a different city. Since this is even more challenging, you should handle this situation with greater caution. What should I focus on?

Hard containers are not ideal for long-term transit because they can cause injuries to occupants when they shake. Using multilayer polyethylene bags that are placed inside thermal bags, foam boxes, etc., is preferable.

In the event that you were unable to purchase bags, you can construct your own by putting one inside the other and using electrical tape or rubber bands to pull the lower corners together at a distance of roughly 2 cm from the corner.

The bag should be nearly full of water. However, you must consider the following scenario: the water level ought to be three times higher than the fish’s height. After that, set the pets down, lower the water-level hose from the compressor or lightbulb, press the air out of the bag, and add oxygen, holding it just below the surface.

After that, remove the hose with caution, twist the bag, and fasten it with a clamp, elastic band, etc. Once multiple bags are prepared, encase them in multiple layers of newspaper and arrange them in a box with ice or heating pads layered on top. This is contingent upon the fish species and season.

You can re-fill it with rolled up newspaper or air-inflated bags. Stability in the temperature regime is desired. Using specialized plastic thermal containers is the best choice.

For most fish, the water to oxygen ratio in the bags should be one to one. For fish in a labyrinth, 1–3.

It is occasionally advised to dilute the water with a small amount of zeolite. It aids in fish secreted ammonia neutralization. Additionally, for disinfection, use either monomycin (1000 U per 1 l) or trypaflavin (5 mg per 1 l).

It is impossible to ignore the density of the stockings!

The sources provide the following suggestions:

  1. If you have to travel 10-35 hours, then there should be no more than 300 g of live weight of fish per 1 liter of water.
  2. If the travel time is 35-70 hours, then the norm is no more than 150.
  3. If 70 or more hours are spent, then additional water and oxygen will be required to recharge on the road.
  4. There is also a formula: the longer the travel time, the lower the stocking density. And also, the larger the fish, the lower its density.

One fish in a bag is ideal, according to some breeders. The others won’t be impacted if it passes away and starts to degrade.

The box should be transported as carefully as possible, with no heavy rocking or forceful blows.

It is preferable to periodically assess the fish’s health. If they are able to extract air at the surface, it would be beneficial to have a battery-operated compressor or, at the very least, a simple pear with a hose and spray. You can pump air into packages with these easy-to-use aeration devices.

Оногда при длительных перевозках анестезию применяют, то есть усыпляют рыб. You can raise the landing density by doing this. However, there is a greater chance of fish sterilization and death.

How to transport fish in winter?

The process for transportation is the same in general. Preventing hypothermia and keeping the water in the containers at the ideal temperature for as long as possible are the biggest challenges. How can this be accomplished?

  1. Hide a bag or can under clothes on the body. Not always suitable for obvious reasons.
  2. Turn the containers with several layers of fabric or newspapers.
  3. Place bottles or hot water bottles with hot water in the box (the fish should not have direct contact with this container). You can line them with fabric or paper. If you add salt to the water in bottles or heating pads, then the heat transfer will take longer.
  4. If transportation is carried out by car, then the container can be placed on the seat and covered with a blanket or jacket.
  5. Use a thermal bag. This is the best option.

How to transport fish in a car?

Given that a car is the most practical and easily accessible mode of transportation for both people and fish, this is a question that many aquarists find interesting. There shouldn’t be any temperature fluctuations in the warm car. It is best to place boxes containing containers where the fish are kept in the cabin on the seat and cover them with a blanket, jacket, etc. Everything else is handled in the same manner as in other situations.

Planning ahead and paying close attention to the requirements of fish, such as maintaining ideal water conditions, reducing stress, and using the appropriate containers, are essential to safely transporting fish. Your fish can arrive at their new home healthy and undamaged if you prepare ahead of time and follow a few easy steps.

How to transport aquarium plants?

In this case, keeping them from freezing, overheating, or drying out is crucial. Additionally, keep in mind that plants cannot survive for longer than two days without light. They should never be sent by parcel because of this.

Plants come packaged like this:

  • they need to be placed in a damp plastic bag;
  • do not fill it completely with water, just a small amount is enough;
  • the bushes can be wrapped in wet newspaper;
  • no need to pump air in either;
  • tie the bag tightly, place it in another one;
  • fill the last bag with air and tie it too.

When being transported, aquarium plants do best in a cool environment, but not below +12 degrees. It is safer to transfer them in water if this occurs in the winter since it will act as a buffer against a sharp drop in temperature.

Since overheating will kill the plants, it should not be permitted. Keep them out of the open sun and don’t let the temperature go above thirty degrees in the summer.

The plants cannot be put in the aquarium right away after they arrive. They have to adjust. To accomplish this, leave them lying at room temperature without opening the package.

Tip Details
Use a sturdy container Choose a strong plastic bag or a solid container to avoid leaks and damage.
Maintain water temperature Use an insulated box or wrap the container in a towel to keep the water temperature stable.
Limit fish per container Avoid overcrowding; place only a few fish in each container to reduce stress.
Reduce water volume Fill the container halfway to leave room for air, ensuring fish have enough oxygen.
Avoid feeding Do not feed the fish 24 hours before transport to reduce waste and contamination.
Minimize movement Keep the container steady and avoid sudden movements during transport.

It all comes down to planning and taking care when transporting fish. Use the appropriate container, keep the water’s conditions steady, and minimize stress by keeping the surroundings peaceful and dark while traveling.

Prior to the trip, try not to overfeed yourself, and make sure to frequently check the temperature to avoid any unexpected changes. By following these instructions, you can make sure your fish get to their new home healthy and undamaged.

You and your fish can experience a seamless and stress-free process with a little preparation and attention to detail.

Video on the topic

How to pack aquarium fish for transportation

PACKING AND TRANSPORTING LIVE AQUARIUM FISH TO ANOTHER CITY BY NOVA POSHTA!

How not to transport aquarium fish!

How to transport aquarium fish.

Transporting fish without oxygen.

Long-term transportation of aquarium fish (train, plane, bus)

How to properly TRANSPORT and PLANT fish and plants

What part of aquarium maintenance do you consider the most difficult?
Share to friends
Elena Grishina

Ecologist and aquarist with a special interest in creating balanced ecosystems in aquariums. Main focus — ecosystems that require minimal human intervention. I support a natural approach to aquarium care, where each element plays its role, helping to maintain harmony in a closed ecosystem. I promote sustainable aquarium keeping and respect for nature.

Rate author
InfoProekt24.com
Add a comment