Botia macracanthus, commonly referred to as the Marbled Botia, is an intriguing addition to any aquarium. It enhances the beauty and individuality of your aquatic setup with its eye-catching patterns and vibrant behaviour. Originating in Southeast Asian rivers, this fish is a favorite among hobbyists because of its unusual look and comparatively simple maintenance needs.
The Marbled Botia sticks out in a tank thanks to its marbled pattern of light and dark colors. It’s an interesting species to observe because of its vivid colors and lively disposition. Aquarium enthusiasts may find their playful interactions and inquisitive nature quite entertaining as they explore every inch of their surroundings.
The Marbled Botia requires a tank that is densely planted and has lots of hiding places. Since they do best in groups, it is best to keep them in schools where they will feel safe and be able to behave as they would naturally. A long-lasting and enjoyable aquarium companion, the Marbled Botia requires the correct conditions and maintenance.
Marbled Botia care and maintenance
Photo of a marbled Botia
Marbled Botia or lohacata has an elongated, torpedo-shaped body with a curved back and a straight abdomen, powerful pectoral fins make it possible to easily maneuver in the bottom layers of water bodies, the head is small, with a lower mouth and four pairs of very sensitive whiskers. Life expectancy in an aquarium is up to seven years (According to some data, the aquarium long-liver has almost reached adulthood – sixteen years side by side with the owner). The silvery color with pronounced black patterns of young individuals gradually acquires a bluish tint with age, revealing all the beauty of the loachata marble. In stressful situations, the fish"s coloring noticeably fades; under very severe stress, the marbled botia can easily pretend to be dead – freeze in a belly-up position and turn pale to such an extent that the lifelessness of this little body will not cause any doubts either in the predator or in the owner of the aquarium. It should be noted that in its natural habitat, this fish grows up to twenty centimeters, and in aquarium conditions its size reaches an average of seven and a half centimeters. However, there is information about fifteen-centimeter aquarium specimens, so this type of botia does not belong to small fish in any way. Another feature of the Yo-Yo (marbled botia) is the presence of subocular spines (hooks) – bone formations that this fish releases only in case of self-defense when attacked by predators or when trying to catch it with a net, so be careful, the lohakata can catch its weapon on the net of the net and be seriously injured as a result.
Photo of a marbled botia
The maximum activity of the marbled botia is twilight and night time, so we can safely say that this fish does not like bright light. During the day, it prefers to hide under snags, in stone grottoes, in dense thickets of aquatic plants or other shelters. Prefers the lower layer of the reservoir, sometimes goes into the middle. Feeds lohakata from the bottom and leads a predominantly nocturnal lifestyle. The fish is a schooling fish, so it is better to keep them in the company of five or six individuals – this way they feel better and calmer. Single individuals in an aquarium behave aggressively and very secretively, spend almost all the time in deep shelters – you will almost never see them. By the way, about shelters: Yo-Yo prefer narrow crevices and hard-to-reach places as shelters, such as groups of stones, cracks in large snags, tight grottoes and other "pockets" in the aquarium and get stuck there, so you will have to periodically recount the number of individuals and take measures to save particularly secretive and shy specimens. In general, the behavior of these marble beauties can be described as a constantly rotating delight in the twilight thickets. As soon as the sun begins to set, and the lighting of your aquarium becomes softer and calmer, the marble botia will show all its attractiveness and charisma.
Picture of Marble Botia
In the natural environment, the lohakata lives in almost stagnant, but crystal clear water, so we can safely say that this fish does not like the current, as well as bright light. Increased content of any (organic, chemical) impurities in the water can lead to stress in the marble botia and even death, so the aquarium should be equipped with a good external filter that provides maximum purification without creating a strong current. These fish do not tolerate the addition of salt, sulfates and copper sulfate to the reservoir (used for the prevention and treatment of fish in a common aquarium). Powerful aeration is a must. It is best to choose fine and medium fraction soil for an aquarium with marble botias, without sharp edges – the fish constantly dig it, and the antennae of the Yo-Yo are very sensitive and delicate, and the lohakata has almost no scales and the fish periodically rubs against the soil, removing the protective mucus secreted by the body.
Picture of Marble Botia
The absence of high levels of phosphates and nitrogen compounds in the aquarium is crucial for the maintenance of any fish. Drop tests are something that every responsible aquarist should always have on hand, if only for phosphate and nitrate. Thankfully, they are now reasonably priced, and there are no issues with their acquisition or variety. You can get cheap Vladox tests in offline stores in your city.
The reputable FF online retailer Aqua Logo Shop is where you can buy the medications, gear, and other helpful items for an aquarist that were mentioned above. Suggested!
Because botias are delicate and scaleless fish, it is best to use substances that block harmful substances when changing their water, even with clean tap water. For instance, Tetra AquaSafe contains iodine, B vitamins, and other beneficial ingredients for aquariums while also blocking heavy metals and chlorine compounds. Botsiki is going to love this!
Photo of a marbled botia
Marbled botias are schooling and territorial fish, so it is preferable to keep them in volumes of 150 liters – this way it is calmer both inside the school and for neighbors. By the way, about neighbors – almost any species of small and peaceful fish are suitable in this capacity, lohakata are almost non-aggressive towards other species. Maximum aggression is intraspecific, and even that is only harmless dances, these fish do not cause any harm to the opponent"s health, this is how a clear hierarchy is established within the school. It is definitely not recommended to combine marbled botia with large cichlids – the latter will actively hunt it, often with a lethal outcome for the object of hunting. Sumatran barbs are also undesirable neighbors for marbled botia, since Sumatrans are schooling, active fish and will collectively resolve territorial disputes with botias at the most inopportune moment for the latter – during the day, when the lohakata is in a dormant period. Oddly enough, but the goldfish of any subspecies are also not suitable for the role of neighbors because of their ability to pollute water in a record time, which is completely unacceptable for marble bony. Small shrimp and their offspring themselves will become the object of hunting bosses. The best compatibility and the best neighbors for the marble bony will be related species, for example, a clown, a chess boose or any other peaceful tropical fish that prefer warm, soft water. The aquarium with boats must be equipped with a lot of shelters with footnote to their ability to get stuck in the most unexpected places, and you will also have to refrain from planting ground cover plants or putting up with the fact that these fish are digging the soil and are always happy to enjoy young fresh herbs. Aquarium plants with a weak root system will most likely also be treacherously dug up in search of the roots of something tasty. Water parameters for keeping marbled botias: Ph – 6.0 – 6.5, Gh – 5-11 conventional units, comfortable temperature 25-28 degrees Celsius. Weekly water changes of 30%-40% are necessary. These fish love crystal clear water and stability in water parameters, so it is not recommended to populate them in a young, unstable aquarium.
Feeding marble botias
Picture of Marble Botia
Marble botia is almost omnivorous – although it prefers protein food, it will not miss the opportunity to feast on fresh vegetation. Botias almost never have a feeling of satiety, so you need to be very careful when feeding – these eternally hungry gluttons will eat until they burst or die from obesity. By the way, the gastronomic predilection of marble botias for small snails (coils, physes, melania) makes these fish almost unsurpassed aquarium orderlies. They are capable of reducing the population of small unwanted mollusks and crustaceans to almost zero in a few days. In order to protect young shoots of greenery in planted aquariums, it is best to regularly, at least once or twice a week, feed Yo-Yo with fresh cucumber or scalded spinach, pebbles fixed to the bottom or just on a stainless steel fork. Dry granulated food for aquarium fish is also great, but only the one that sinks and lies on the ground, the lohakata will not be able to take food from the surface and from the thickness of the water and will not want to. When feeding, you should always remember the immutable rule of the aquarist: "better underfeeding than overfeeding". It is best to feed marbled botia at sunset, that is, shortly before turning off the main lighting.
In the wild, botia have a wide variety of foods. They actually eat everything, including worms, larvae, and insects. They can chew on a plant as an aperitif. In this sense, their diet in an aquarium should be varied and comprise both plant and protein components. Any food that reaches the bottom, such as flakes, granules, or sticks, will be calmly picked up by botias. However, when it comes to self-feeding, tablet feeds like Tetra Wafer Mix work best.
Tetra’s feed for botia
Please be advised that feeding tablets, like Tetra Pleco Tablets, are not recommended for botia lorics. These feeds are made completely of plant ingredients. Such a decision will not be approved by Botia.
| Aspect | Details |
| Common Name | Marbled Botia |
| Scientific Name | Botia kubotai |
| Size | Up to 6 inches (15 cm) |
| Origin | Thailand and Myanmar |
| Water Conditions | pH 6.0-7.5, soft to moderately hard water |
| Temperature | 72-78°F (22-26°C) |
| Diet | Omnivorous, eats both meaty and plant-based foods |
| Tank Setup | Requires hiding spots and a well-planted tank |
| Behavior | Active and social, prefers to be in groups |
| Compatibility | Generally peaceful, best with other non-aggressive fish |
| Care Level | Moderate, requires regular maintenance |
Because of their eye-catching patterns and lively personalities, marbled botia make a fascinating addition to any freshwater aquarium. Their distinct color combination, resembling marble, sets them apart from other fish species. If their basic needs are met, they can adapt well to a variety of conditions, so keep that in mind if you’re thinking about adding them to your tank.
These fish do best in an aquarium that is kept up and has lots of swimming room and hiding places. Since they are social beings, it is best to keep them in groups to keep them content and engaged. A balanced diet and frequent water changes will help maintain their health and vibrancy.
In conclusion, Marbled Botia can improve any aquarium setup thanks to their dynamic behavior and eye-catching appearance. Given appropriate maintenance, they will infuse your aquatic environment with vibrant activity in addition to a pop of color. Take up the rewarding and interesting task of caring for these fish if you’re ready to discover the delights of keeping them.
A vibrant and lively fish that can add character and color to any aquarium is the Marbled Botia. This species, which is well-known for its striking marbled patterns and vibrant behavior, not only improves a tank’s aesthetic appeal but also provides aquarium enthusiasts with an interesting experience. To make sure the Marbled Botia flourishes in a well-kept aquarium setting, it is imperative to comprehend its care requirements, including its habitat needs and social behavior.
