Stones for a freshwater aquarium: how to choose and process them correctly

Although it takes some planning and attention to detail, especially when it comes to selecting the appropriate stones, setting up a freshwater aquarium is a rewarding hobby. In addition to offering significant advantages for fish and plants, stones can enhance the natural beauty of your tank. But not all stones are made equal, so in order to provide your aquatic life with a healthy habitat, it’s imperative that you choose and prepare them carefully.

Let’s start by discussing the kinds of stones you might think about. Certain stones are excellent because they are stable and won’t change the chemistry of the water, such as slate or basalt. Others, like coral or limestone, should only be used sparingly since they have the potential to alter pH levels. Selecting the appropriate stones for your setup will be made easier if you are aware of their unique qualities.

The next step is to process your stones after you’ve chosen them. It’s critical to give them a thorough cleaning to get rid of any possible contaminants, dirt, or debris. It should work just fine to give it a thorough scrub with a brush and some water; stay away from soaps and chemicals. It’s a good idea to soak the stones in water for a few days after cleaning to make sure nothing hazardous seeps into your tank.

You can keep your fish and plants healthy in your aquarium and improve its aesthetic appeal by adhering to these guidelines. The beauty and balance that the right stones add to your underwater world make the process of selecting and preparing them worthwhile, even though it may require some additional work.

Why do you need stones in an aquarium

The only people who are certain that the stones in their ponds are there just to decorate the bottom are novice aquascapers. They have some merit. The aquarium appears to have natural pond stones.

But stones have far more uses in an aquarium than just that:

• imitation of the natural habitat for aquatic fauna;
• organization of a place for spawning;

• regulation of biobalance;
• providing anchors for plant roots.

The size of the stones and how they relate to the reservoir’s volume, along with the type of vegetation, are factors considered when choosing aquarium décor options:

1. Large specimens, especially smooth boulders from the sea, cannot be used to grow Vallisneria.
2. If potted plants are planted in the aquarium, they are surrounded by medium-sized stones. You can create grottoes and caves from them, lay driftwood around them.
3. If floating vegetation is used, the size and shape of the stones can be any. The main thing is that they do not clutter the bottom too much.

An aquatic environment that is both aesthetically pleasing and healthful in a freshwater aquarium is largely dependent on the selection and processing of stones. This article will walk you through the process of choosing stones that are safe for your fish and plants, as well as provide you easy instructions on how to clean and prepare them. Knowing how various stones affect the chemistry of the water and the ecosystem in the tank as a whole will help you maintain the lovely, well-maintained décor in your aquarium and ensure its success.

Types of stones

The bottom is embellished with both natural and artificial stone types. Store-bought imitations made of glass or plastic will slide right into the reservoir’s interior. A glittering smattering of glass fragments in various colors appears lovely. Additionally popular are specially created ornamental compositions.

You can also buy natural stones from the store or gather them on your own. Expert aquarists recommend that novices prioritize quartz. This mineral is easily recognized by its distinctive white, transparent crystals or veins.

Features of the influence of stones on the aquatic environment

It is crucial to take into account the stones’ capacity to alter the liquid’s parameters when choosing them.

Based on this criterion, they are separated into the subsequent groups:

Neutral means that the aquarium is totally safe.

Hardness rising

Lowering acidity and raising alkalinity

Other selection criteria

It is crucial to take into account the size, shape, and structure of the stones in addition to their place of origin when choosing them. It’s possible that a specimen that seems beautiful on the outside doesn’t fit the criteria.

When making your choice, heed these advices:

1. Give preference to not too heavy specimens. For stability, the base of the stone should be larger than the top.
2. The stone should not crumble or fall off under external mechanical impact.
3. Avoid specimens with sharp and too protruding corners. Otherwise, fish may be injured by the stone.

Which stones should not be used

The following stones should not be placed in an aquarium because they contain substances that are toxic to all living things:

Hefty metals

Lead

Mercury

Symptoms common to stones that harm aquatic life include:

• collected near mines, pits, large highways;
• emitting a sharp, strong odor;

• having metallic veins, rust inclusions;
• brightly and unusually colored.

Blue-green-toned stones (azurite or malachite) should be avoided at all costs. Salts of copper and chromium are typically present.

Beautiful stones for aquascaping

No matter how cohesive and harmonious it may appear, every aquascape is made up of separate components. And here, the stones are the main character. They serve as the composition’s main focal point and vibrant accent. As a result, stones are chosen especially carefully for aquascape, with an emphasis on appearance.

In water, the following stones appear attractive:

Dragon

This is fossilized clay by origin. The holes in the stone are oriented in a single direction, which gives it its unique characteristics. As a result, the Dragon appears to be a rock covered in scales. This stone typically weighs less than other natural rocks and has a greenish-brown color.

Porphyry

A particular kind of volcanic granite rock. It got its name because of its unique structure. Gray quartz and pale feldspar crystals with shiny edges are visible on the smooth surface. Porphyry may have hues of reddish-green, brown, or purple.

Sandstone cavernous

Lumps with through holes in different sizes and shapes. This stone’s coarse surface is very ornamental. Large holes can be carved into the stone to create the appearance of a grotto.

Gneiss

An increasingly hard rock. Its composition is the same as granite’s, but its noticeable striping gives it an unique appearance. The stripes are typically gray; they are occasionally white or gray-green.

Elephant: Stone of the Elephant

A grayish-brown stone with a highly textured surface. The stone’s name originates from the fact that it resembles the wrinkly skin of an elephant.

Carpathian stone

Among the greatest choices for composing in a naturalistic manner. has inherent shading and hardly affects the water’s parameters.

Gray Mountain (Alpine Peak)

Its name is quite descriptive. This stone mimics the color and texture of real rocks. For compositions in the Iwagumi style, this option is essential.

Diabase gabbro

A greenish-black or dark gray polycrystalline volcanic rock. appearance in glued compositions is good.

Slate

Layered structure of hard rock. From pale gray to nearly black in color. The side faces display vividly colored stripes.

Mesh rock

In addition to being incredibly ornamental, the porous structure acts as a natural biofilter.

Samurai

A porous stone with a range of saturation levels in shades of black.

An expert company that makes aquarium equipment for ADA offers a large assortment of stones and pre-made compositions for aquascaping. Both natural and artificial stones with intriguing textures can be purchased individually from this company’s online stores, as well as pre-made aquascaping kits.

How to prepare stones for immersion in an aquarium

Shop stones are a popular choice for beginning aquascapers since they don’t need any extra manipulations because they have already been tested and processed. Frequently, they have already produced lovely arrangements, so while the aquarium won’t be entirely unique, it will undoubtedly be exquisite.

However, a lot of aquarists don’t know why they have to pay for the stuff that’s right beneath their feet. But you can’t just pick up stones from the street and throw them into the water. By taking such steps, you run the risk of bringing an infection into the ecosystem, which will be extremely difficult to eradicate. Specimens that are independently collected need to be thoroughly cleaned and inspected for the presence of any hazardous materials.

Is the stone “phonic” or not

It is crucial to first determine the amount of calcium carbonate present in any specimen that is chosen. You must specify whether the boulder is "phonic," to use the vernacular of aquarists. These kinds of stones will dissolve in water and make it harder. And the plants and animals suffer greatly from this.

The majority of aquatic plants are sensitive to excessively hard water. However, there are some exclusions: In aquariums, Madagascar Aponogetons reticularis, Baivianus dies at a hardness of 4-5 dH, but they thrive in waters between 0.8 and 1.2 dH. Conversely, Cryptocoryne ciliata grows at a hardness greater than 20–30dH.

It is acceptable and even recommended to put limestone rocks in aquariums with crab, shrimp, and snail inhabitants. Their shells lose their protective qualities and become softer in soft water. Hard water is also preferred by some fish species, including Victorians, swordtails, mollies, American cichlids, Malawians, Tanganyika cichlids, and other pecilian species.

All other members of the flora and fauna are adversely affected by calcium carbonate. As a result, we use acetic, sulfuric, or hydrochloric acid to test stones. Transfer the material into a syringe and dispense it onto the designated stone. The rock contains calcium carbonate, as evidenced by the bubbles created during this process. In an aquarium with soft water, you can use the stone without risk if there are no bubbles.

“Bath” procedures for stones

Cleaning and disinfection are the next steps in the diving preparation process.

The following steps are included in these procedures:

Cleaning

Soak the stones for a while to remove stubborn dirt. It takes between 30 and 49 minutes. Next, use a firm brush to scrub the surface while running water, being sure to get into all of the cracks. Since it is unknown what reaction makeup or household chemicals may have with the material, you should avoid using them for washing.

Simmering

The views of seasoned aquarists vary on this matter. Some believe there is no need for the procedure. Boiling water or washing in hot water is sufficient, in their view. Perfectionists recommend boiling the stones for one to two hours on low heat. or calcining for 20 to 30 minutes at the highest temperature possible in the oven.

Chemical solutions for disinfection

If heat treatment is not an option, this method can be applied. When treating stones with a porous structure, which are susceptible to destruction during boiling, it is also preferable to use this method. Utilizing a 1:10 bleach to water solution, the treatment is performed. After completely pouring the stones, let them sit for a day. After that, immerse them for an hour in clean water. Furthermore, give the stones a quick wash under running water.

Avoid putting boiling or pumping stones into a running aquarium’s cold water right away. Cool them to prevent a sudden spike in the ecosystem’s temperature.

How to place

• Stones can not just be thrown to the bottom. It is important to make them beautifully, creating a certain composition. Nature is diverse and natural, but this does not mean that there is no order in it. The construction of a stone skeleton is subordinated to certain rules of beauty and safety.
• One of the most common mistakes, which beginners perform when laying heavy decorations in the aquarium – applying to the walls. Under strong pressure, glass will crack. Most aquarium materials are durable, but with additional pressure they can easily break.

• Avoid the location of the stones in one part of the aquarium. It is better to lay them out evenly. But if the intended design does not fit into the recommendations, then you need to make sure that the glass can withstand the additional weight.
• Ensure the stability of the composition. Otherwise, a frisky school of fish can knock down a pebble, depending on the size and weight of which, everything can end with a crack in the glass. But even if the glass holds up, the stone can crush one of the aquarium inhabitants. You can strengthen the composition with special aquarium silicone glue. Most pet stores offer safe products, but it does not hurt to double-check.

There are various options for compositions in terms of style:

Iwagumi

Takeshi Amano, the master of aquascape, favors this Japanese aesthetic in his compositions. It is centered around one or two large, projecting stones, surrounded by a number of small specimens and a single kind of low-growing plant.

Hardscape

The word means "hard," heavy, and "scape," when translated. There is a lot of heaviness to the design. Entirely covered in heavy stones and snags is the bottom. For cichlids, this design is preferred.

Dutch design

This version uses stones to simulate garden paths. Little specimens are thus set on the bottom. An aquarium filled with herbs looks like a flower bed.

Faux-natural aesthetic

Granite, coquina, and big pebbles look great together in this arrangement. This version combines glass and plastic with natural stones.

Organic fashion

Combination of wood and stone, or rather strangely shaped driftwood. It is the designer’s responsibility to replicate the look of a natural reservoir.

Don’t make the aquarium a museum dedicated to minerals. It is preferable if the specimens are similar in texture and color. This will eventually result in a harmonious, natural composition at the reservoir’s bottom.

DIY stone compositions

With your own hands, you can make a large, bizarre composition that looks similar to those pricey options we see in pet stores. You can use relatively small specimens for this, and you can glue them to the surface. It is not possible to simply stack stones on top of one another and add water!

The following supplies are needed to glue stones and any other aquarium décor:

Filters for cigarettes (available at tobacco shops).

Super glue in liquid form—not gel.

Clear silicone adhesive.

Remove the filter’s guts and sandwich it between the glass and the stone. Put glue inside of it. Everything smokes and hisses for a few seconds before solidifying.

The stones can be fixed using this method, but breaking them off is very simple. It is therefore preferable to make additional repairs if the stone is extremely heavy or hangs freely.

Using clear silicone, adhere the stone from the side that is hidden from view by the audience. Following this process, the stone pendants are fixed firmly, so you can handle them with confidence. Additionally, silicone absorbs all "awkward touches."

Tips for creating compositions

Crafting a stone composition requires creativity, and each aquascaper can produce a one-of-a-kind piece.

Follow these guidelines to create a harmonious combination:

• Use 3 categories of stones in the composition: heavy, medium and light. At the same time, evaluate not only the external beauty of each stone, but also how they look in a group.
• Incorrect combination – 6 large, 3 medium and no small. 1–2 large stones, several medium and small stones look harmonious.
• Don’t choose only beautiful stones. A brightly colored specimen should stand out, and the rest should create a background for it.
• Start arranging with large stones, and then add medium ones. Transitions between specimens should not be conspicuous, it is better to fill them with small stones.

Compositions of stones with plants

Plants and moss are useful additions to stone compositions. For instance, buceflands and anubias. They work best when mixed with lava fragments, which can be used to create a wide variety of strange shapes. Traditional methods of fixing plants involve the use of silk threads or fishing line. But this could destroy the entire aesthetic.

Super glue is a modern fastening technique. You don’t need to worry that the glue will damage the fish or the aquarium in general. Erythroxyl cyanoacrylate is superglue. It releases nothing into the water as it hardens. worldwide aquascapers have put it to the test! Here, as opposed to gluing stones, a gel will be required. Plants can be moved around because it does not flow and hardens more slowly.

We secure the plant in this manner:

Questions from beginners

Yes, but only after receiving particular care. To remove the salt, soak them first. Give them an overnight "soak" the first time. Next day, change the water. every two to three hours. Make sure to boil for two or three hours at night. Next, let it dry. Place the stones in the aquarium only the following day.

Observe the work of aquascapers with expertise. It is improbable that you will find white, yellow, or overly light stones there, as these colors don’t work well in an aquarium with plants. These stones lose their color. Thus, the conclusion: when working with herbalists, stones ranging from light gray to black should be used.

Beware of buceflanders and anubias. Herbs belonging to the genus Araceae are another option. Driftwood and stones are ideal growing environments for long-stemmed plants like Sibtorpioides, Tripartita, and Nomaphyla Compacta. It is preferable in this instance to root the plant in a greenhouse before putting it in an aquarium.

The best method is to place the stones on a plastic grid (you can use lamp grids), add fine soil for fixation, and then place another stone on top of it. You can pour clear silicone sealant beneath the base if stability is all that is required.

An aquarium looks unique and unobtrusive with stones in it. They provide fish with cover and aesthetic appeal for the bottom. While not all stones are appropriate for aquariums, you can select one that best fits the reservoir’s design and maintains its biobalance thanks to the wide variety of shapes available when purchasing or selecting stones.

Topic	Description
Types of Stones	Common types for freshwater aquariums include lava rock, driftwood, and slate. Each type offers different benefits like hiding spots or visual appeal.
Choosing Stones	Look for stones that are non-toxic and won’t alter the water chemistry. Avoid stones with sharp edges that could injure fish.
Cleaning Stones	Rinse stones thoroughly with water before adding them to the tank. Avoid using soaps or chemicals as they can harm aquatic life.
Placement Tips	Arrange stones to create hiding spots and natural landscapes. Ensure that stones are stable and won’t shift easily, which could harm fish.
Avoiding Problems	Monitor the aquarium for changes in water parameters after adding new stones. If you notice any issues, check if the stones are affecting the water quality.

The appearance and health of your freshwater aquarium’s occupants can both be greatly improved by selecting the appropriate stones. You can guarantee a healthier habitat for your fish and plants by choosing stones that are secure and appropriate for the conditions in your tank. Always choose stones that won’t leach harmful substances or change the chemistry of the water.

To prevent potential problems, processing stones correctly is essential. To get rid of any contaminants, give them a thorough cleaning before putting them in your tank. This can be facilitated by boiling or soaking the stones, which will guarantee that they are free of residues and dangerous bacteria. Maintaining the optimal health of the ecosystem in your aquarium requires taking this action.

Recall that selecting the appropriate stones for your aquarium not only improves its visual appeal but also helps to maintain a stable and harmonious environment. Explore the qualities of each type of stone to find the perfect fit for both your needs and your aquarium. You can create a beautiful and vibrant aquatic world by carefully choosing and processing the materials.

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