The intriguing and distinctive Tropheus duboisi cichlid species has drawn interest from aquarium enthusiasts all over the world. Within the realm of freshwater aquariums, this fish is truly remarkable due to its remarkable appearance and captivating behavior.
Tropheus duboisi, which originated on the stony shores of Lake Tanganyika in Africa, is distinguished by its unique color patterns that alter with age. Typically, juveniles have dark spots that gradually disappear to reveal a stunning blue-black body with a striking white band as they mature.
Although caring for Tropheus duboisi in an aquarium can be rewarding, it also involves some planning and preparation. These fish require lots of room to swim and explore, and they do best in groups. They flourish in settings that are similar to their native habitat, which includes clear, well-oxygenated water and rocky formations.
Category | Details |
Scientific Name | Tropheus duboisi |
Origin | Lake Tanganyika, Africa |
Size | Up to 12 cm (4.7 inches) |
Diet | Herbivore, primarily algae |
Temperament | Semi-aggressive, best kept in groups |
Water Conditions | pH 7.8-9.0, Temperature 24-27°C (75-81°F) |
Care Level | Intermediate |
- Habitat and habitat
- Description
- Size
- Behavior and compatibility
- Aquarium
- Aquarium size
- Feeding
- Sexual Dimorphism
- Breeding
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Habitat and habitat
Africa, northern part of Lake Tanganyika.
This lake is the only home for the species. They can be found living as deep as 30 meters in stony coastal regions. Male adults do not have permanent territories in nature. Most T. duboisi are solitary or live in small groups. They roam about their environments in pursuit of food. Their primary food source is algae, or more specifically, the biomass that grows on rocks; it may also include zooplankton, insect larvae, crabs, and snails. Since T. duboisi inhabits the lake’s slightly deeper depths—between 7 and 25 meters—the algal growths are not particularly dense, forcing the fish to constantly migrate in order to find enough food.
In various regions of the lake, four subpopulations can be identified; these are commonly known as Tropheus Duboisi or Starry Tropheus. In addition to their respective names, they are also referred to by their place of origin. The adult fish differ in terms of the color (yellow or white) and width of their vertical stripe.
The yellow broadband subpopulation, Tropheus Duboisi "Maswa" (T. duboisi Maswa), is derived from the port region of Kalemie, Congo.
Tropheus Duboisi "Kigoma" (T. duboisi Kigoma): this subpopulation is the largest; it originates from the Malagaria region of Tanzania, which borders Burundi. It has a broad white stripe that is not as wide as Bemba’s.
The subpopulation known as Trofius Duboisi "Carilani" (t. Duboisi Karilani) is found in the vicinity of the island of Karilani, Magambo, and is distinguished by a narrow white stripe.
Trofius Duboisi "Bamba" (t. Duboisi Bemba): this subpopulation, which originates from the area around the lake’s coast in the Bamba region of the Congo, is referred to as having broad legs and a broad white stripe.
Because of its unusually wide yellow stripe, the "mask" population in aquariums is arguably the most well-liked. The coloring of males and females is the same.
Description
The Starry Tropheus is a powerful fish with a large head compared to its body and a tapering body that ends in a tail. tail fin shaped like a propeller.
Fish that are adults have a bluish-blue head, a nearly black body, fins, and a vivid stripe running down the middle. Juniors have a striking appearance, with their black bodies speckled with bluish-white dots.
The striking transformation of juvenile fish into adult coloration. The stripe starts out as a faded yellow or white color as they get bigger. Its head turns blue, but its spots remain, and the spots on its body gradually vanish. As the fish ages, the spots on its body start to form erratic stripes that eventually fade to a solid color.
Size
The standard length limit is 12 cm.
Behavior and compatibility
Although this species’ reputation for aggressive behavior is questionable, it is unjustified. As a matter of fact, they get along pretty well with other species, but they will fight with other members of their own species. Since the fish is highly energetic, it shouldn’t be housed with timid or couch potato fish. Because they need a diet similar to Tropheus, species such as Julidochromis, Eretmodus, and Tanganicodus could make good tankmates.
Unfortunately, getting a peaceful species group of Duboisi is quite difficult. These fish are not schooling by nature, and will usually compete with each other in the aquarium until a natural order is established – a hierarchy. Despite this, in small groups (5-6 pieces) the fish do not calm down and can fight to the death. Therefore, it is usually recommended to purchase a group of 10-20 fish to reduce territorial aggression. There are exceptions to this, sometimes small groups and even pairs of Tropheus live peacefully together, but these are most likely just exceptions to the rule. The main problem associated with the successful maintenance of a colony of Tropheus is the size of the aquarium, with the minimum size for a group of fish of this species being 150x45x45 cm. If kept in a large group, the social interactions between the fish are truly fascinating. New specimens should never be introduced into an established group as they will not be tolerated.
Aggressive cichlid fish can be calmed down by certain fish species and the Synodontis catfish. Including schooling fish, like rainbowfish, will aid in deterring males from behaving aggressively against females.
Aquarium
Aquarium size
Dimensiuni: 120 x 30 x 30 cm; volume: 110 liters/exemplar. A larger aquarium is necessary for a group of fish.
Tropheus can be kept in decorated tanks as well, but many aquarists keep them in bare tanks to minimize territorial behavior. If you want to add some decoration to the aquarium, use a pile of rocks to make lots of caverns and hiding spots that are dotted with swimming areas. Whatever the situation, make sure the water is properly oxygenated, use sand as the substrate, and use bright lighting to encourage the growth of algae.
Water characteristics:
In the range of 23 to 27 °C pH range: 8.0–9.5 Durability: 8–25 ° dGH
The water in Lake Tanganyika is quite hard and very alkaline, its parameters are quite stable, that is, the indicators practically do not change during the seasons. The cichlids in the lake have adapted to these specific conditions and thus live in water with a pH of about 9, and a temperature of 26.5 ° C. According to the experience of Tropheus lovers, the hardness or conductivity of the water plays a secondary role, but the pH is very important. Thus, the pH of the water in the aquarium should be in the range of 7.8 to 9.5 to get the optimal result in a breeding colony of fish. If the pH is below pH 7, T. duboisi is unlikely to reproduce and becomes vulnerable to all kinds of diseases. At a pH below 6.5, the Tropheus Duboisi will die in a short period of time. Acidic water (pH below 7) can be suitable for Lake Tanganyika cichlids only with the addition of salts. Not regular table salt (NaCl), but carbonates. A mixture of one part NaHCO (hydrogen carbonate) and one part (carbonate) added to water raises the pH to about 9.5. How much of this mixture should be added depends on the conductivity of the water. You will have to test this experimentally. That is why the salts are mixed before dissolving in water. This mixture acts as a buffer; therefore the pH will not be higher than the target pH of 9.5. Another option is to use sea salt intended for aquariums. It gives a pH of about 8.3, which is sufficient for T. duboisi. Add as much salt as necessary to raise the pH to 8.3. If the water you start with is very soft, you will need some salt. If the water is hard but does not have the desired pH, it is better to use a Na / NaHCO mixture. The water temperature should be between 25 ° and 27 ° C. Temperatures above 29 ° C are detrimental to all Tanganyika cichlids.
T. duboisi require clean water to be maintained. Frequent partial water changes—either 15% twice or 30% once a week, depending on population density—are crucial.
The water’s abrupt changes in parameters are not tolerated by Tropheus starfish. This intolerance is brought on by Lake Tanganyika’s extreme depth and its tendency to hold water year-round despite variations in the weather throughout the year.
They require powerful and efficient filtration in addition to excellent water movement. Regularly check the pH and nitrate levels; a pH of less than 7 is not permitted, and nitrate levels should not exceed 25 ppm.
Aquarium enthusiasts love Tropheus duboisi, a popular species of cichlid known for its eye-catching juvenile coloration of black and white that gradually changes to a deep blue with white spots as it matures. This fish needs a diet high in algae to stay healthy, and it does best in a large, well-kept aquarium with lots of rocks and hiding places. Because of its particular care requirements and territorial nature, Tropheus duboisi can be difficult to keep, but for seasoned fish keepers, its distinctive beauty and lively nature make it a rewarding choice.
Feeding
Will take most foods offered; however, the majority of the diet should consist of plant-based foods such as blanched spinach, spirulina flakes, etc. Small live and frozen foods can be added to vegetable components. Never feed fish meat since it damages their digestive systems.
One of the most important things for the well-being of Tropheus Duboisi is nutrition. As already stated, in the wild T. duboisi eat a lot, but most of it has no digestive value. All ingested material moves at a relatively high speed through the long intestine. If you feed them easily digestible food, they will voraciously collect as much as possible, this is their nature. If the food is soft and easy to digest, it will form a slimy substance in the first part of the intestine. The digestive tract will become upset, and soon it will not be able to digest anything. The Tropheus will get a bloated belly and loss of appetite. It will be vulnerable to various diseases or simply die from bloat. So, never feed your Duboisi soft, easily digestible food. Do not feed it Tubifex (or any other type of worms), Bloodworms and Corythra or beef heart. One of the best feed for t. duboisi is a Cyclops or, to some extent, Daphnia. These foods should not be fed live, only frozen. The safest choice is good quality dry foods. Green flakes (Spirulina flakes) are especially recommended, but other types are also good. Pellets can be used, but here you risk intestinal obstruction. Therefore, pellets should be softened (soaked in water) before feeding. Another important factor related to nutrition is the relatively small amount of food consumed daily. All artificial foods contain a high percentage of proteins, so a small amount is enough for daily intake.
With their voracious appetites, Tropheus duboisi rarely allow food to sink to the bottom of the aquarium; instead, they devour everything that falls in. Giving out more food in an effort to feed aquarium neighbors may encourage overindulging in the trophies themselves, which may result in bloating.
Feeding three times a day in tiny amounts as opposed to one big meal. This will keep the water’s quality high for an extended amount of time.
Sexual Dimorphism
The distinctions between male and female are not very strong, making it challenging to identify the sex. Although there are some minor variations in the fish’s size, growth rate, and body shape, the only surefire way to tell is to examine its genital papillae, or tubercles, though this is only advised for specialists. In the male, the genital papillae are pointed, while in the female, they are rounded.
Breeding
Incubating eggs in the female"s mouth. The aquarium should be prepared as described above. It is recommended to purchase about 20 young fish and let them grow together. It is difficult to get an ideal group, and some fish (especially subdominant males) may be lost. Another method is to remove dominant males as they develop until you have the desired sex ratio. If you want to keep more than one male, you should provide each of them with about 50 cm of territory, each containing a mound of rocks that the male will defend. 6-10 females should be divided into one male. If there are several males in the tank, but only one or a solid mound of rocks, then only one male will become dominant and will spawn with the females.
The fish typically spawn over rocks in open water. When spawning, the female may choose to collect the eggs by letting them fall into the spaces between the rocks or by taking them into her mouth before they reach the substrate. The male then releases his milt into the female’s mouth, where it is immediately consumed by her, fertilizing the eggs.
Before releasing the free-swimming fry, the female can carry her brood of five to fifteen eggs for more than four weeks. During this time, she typically keeps eating and is visible with her mouth full. If you decide to move the fish, proceed with caution as the female may spit out or eat the brood if she is too stressed. Tropheus is not advised to do this because if the female leaves the colony for an extended period of time, she will drop in the group’s hierarchy and might face severe attacks upon her return.
On the other hand, she might lose the majority of her brood if left in the main tank because of fish harassment. In the event that the female is moved, shut off the lights in the tank and place a blanket over it until she returns. When fry reach two weeks old, most breeders who wish to raise more of them will take them out of the mother’s mouth artificially and raise them themselves from then on. But this is limited to experts only.
When the fry become free-swimming, they are big enough to take on brine shrimp nauplii, microworms, crushed spirulina flakes, and powdered dry food made especially for this use right away.
When the fry feel threatened, they seek safety in their mother’s mouth for a while longer if they remain with her.
The intriguing Tropheus duboisi species infuses any aquarium with vivacious vitality and distinct personality. For fish enthusiasts who are willing to meet their specific care needs, they are an exceptional choice because of their striking appearance and fascinating social behaviors.
Tropheus duboisi are rewarding pets that require careful attention to their diet, water quality, and social environment. However, the effort is well worth it. Any aquatic setup is enhanced by their dynamic interactions and vivid colors that they develop as they grow older.
Tropheus duboisi can be a very rewarding addition to your aquarium if you’re willing to put in the time and effort to set up a suitable habitat. They’ll look beautiful and provide you with an interesting experience as you watch their lively behaviors.