Turquoise Acara (Andinoacara rivulatus)

Andinoacara rivulatus, popularly known as the Turquoise Acara, is an exquisite option for anyone who enjoys keeping freshwater aquariums. This fish brightens up any tank with its vivid colors and distinctive patterns. The Turquoise Acara, which is native to the rivers of South America, especially those in Ecuador and Colombia, is an eye-catching species that is also fascinating to study and take care of.

This fish is well-known for its vivid turquoise-blue body, which is covered in shimmering scales and a unique, complex pattern of stripes and spots. The Turquoise Acara can be the focal point of an exquisitely decorated aquarium due to its striking coloring. It enjoys a well-planted tank with lots of hiding places and stable water quality because it thrives in habitats that are similar to its natural one.

Though it takes some work, both novice and expert aquarists can handle caring for the turquoise acara. As long as their tank mates are carefully selected, they are a good option for community tanks due to their relative hardiness and adaptability. Maintaining regular care and providing the proper environment will guarantee that your Turquoise Acara stays healthy and keeps displaying its stunning colors.

The Turquoise Acara is a great option whether you’re setting up a new tank or want to add a striking fish to an already-existing one. It is a remarkable addition to any aquarium setup due to its captivating behavior and stunning appearance.

Habitat and habitat

South America: from Ecuador’s Esmeraldas River to Peru’s Tumbes River, spanning the Pacific region.

Typical region: Western Ecuador’s Andes.

From the Andes foothills to the Pacific coast, and from the watercourses (rivers, streams, and canals) of the Rio Chone and Portoviejo in the north to the river systems flowing into Golfo de Guayaquil, including Rio Zarumilla and Rio Tumbes in the far northwest of Peru, they are widely dispersed throughout western Ecuador.

This species was discovered by Nieuwenhuizen (quoted by Stawikowski & Werner 1998) in the thermal waters of Budapest and the area around Lake Balaton (Hungary).

Found in a variety of riverine environments, such as residual pools, weed-filled ditches, clear, swift-moving mountain streams, and broad, murky lower reaches of big rivers. They have been seen among trees or aquatic plants, and over gravel, sand, silt, or sunken leaf beds. were discovered in the middle of the river’s deeper waters and zone with a stronger current, in addition to the shallow coastal zone. Big specimens measuring more than 20 cm were only found in very deep water. The water’s characteristics were generally consistent, with a temperature of about 25 °C, 1-2 °C lower in higher areas, a pH of about 7, 3 °KH, and no more than 1 °dGH.

Description

The fish has a convex forehead and is fairly massive. Male adults have a noticeable hump made of fatty tissue on their foreheads.

Juveniles lack the bright iridescent blue, green, and orange coloring as well as the long fins of adults. Instead, they are tan with silvery-blue spots.

Their dorsal fins and tail may have a golden-orange or white edging due to their polymorphism.

Size:

The standard length ranges from 220 to 300 mm. Males can grow up to 30 cm in length, though 15 to 20 cm is more common. They also grow larger than females.

Behavior and Compatibility

Since this is typically a territorial species, it is best kept as a single specimen or pair unless you have a very large aquarium. They can be kept with other large cichlids, loricariids, and catfish in larger aquariums (500 liters or more). It is also possible for active species of reasonable size, like Barb and Bala shark, to be metynnis argentea, leucorrhoeae, etc.

Not too demanding in terms of water and food parameters. They do not eat plants and do not dig very much in preparation for breeding. However, they certainly cannot be considered peaceful – the fish is aggressive by nature, as a rule, it is capable of eating any animal whose size is inferior to the size of the fully extended jaw of the cichlid. In character, they are more reminiscent of Central American cichlids than the character of most East Andean "acaras", especially breeding fish are very aggressive and therefore they are difficult to keep together with other cichlids. Nevertheless, this is possible, provided that the aquarium is large enough (at least 150 cm), allows delimitation of territories, and neighboring species are able to assert themselves.

The Jack Dempsey Cichlid (R. octofasciata), Citron Cichlid (A. citrinellus), Meeki Cichlid (Thorichthys meeki), Flowerhorn, smaller P. managuense (jaguar cichlid) and P. dovii (wolf cichlid), as well as other equally aggressive cichlids, can all be successfully kept with a turquoise acara of the proper size.

Aggression within a species is not to be taken lightly. When pairs form, they frequently engage in aggressive biting and jaw locking, particularly when their partners are of the same size. These fights usually end before the fish spawn, and after the eggs are laid, they will coexist peacefully enough to raise their young. Weaker fish, however, frequently sustain severe injuries in even more violent fights following the loss of their progeny. It is possible to keep and breed adult fish in a relatively small aquarium because they are more peaceful toward one another after they have successfully mated multiple times.

Move some (not all!) of them to a different tank if you want to grow young. You only need to raise 30 to 50 dollars; several hundred is not necessary. If not, eventually even a large aquarium will get overcrowded, which will negatively impact the growth and quality of the young. Additionally, there will be the issue of selling or even giving them all away.

Aquarium

Minimum basic measurements of 150 cm by 45 cm.

A soft sand substrate, driftwood, and a few large flat rocks that might be used as possible spawning sites are the ideal additions to an aquarium. As many visual barriers as you can should be created by the arrangement of the decor if the aquarium contains other fish. It’s unlikely that this will totally soothe them, but it will at least lessen their aggressive behavior.

Rooted plants are less appropriate, but floating plants that offer shade are also a good idea. Plants that can be incorporated into the décor, like Thai fern or Anubias, have a far higher chance of surviving.

Water parameters:

Temperature range: 23 to 28 °C (naturally, 20 to 25 °C) pH range: 6.5 to 8.0 Hardness: 5 to 25 degrees dGH

Sensitive to declining water quality; therefore, implement stringent maintenance procedures and efficient biological filters.

Diet

Omnivorous and typically simple to nourish. Feed sticks to cichlids as a main meal and add frozen and live foods like shrimp, mussels, big bloodworms, and earthworms as supplements. An abundance of vegetables, such as spinach and peas, should be consumed in large amounts. Foods high in protein, like beef heart and other red meats, should not be fed to fish since they may harm their digestive systems.

Sexual Dimorphism

Males are noticeably larger than females, as was previously mentioned. When they mature, they typically develop extensions on the dorsal and anal fins, a feature absent in females, as well as a striking nuchal hump. These humps only grow in the wild during the mating season, but many of the individuals in aquariums have large, permanent humps.

The soft rays of the dorsal and anal fins are less elongated, the tendency to form an occipital hump is less prominent, and females are about 20% smaller than males. Males tend to be more colorful overall, with the orange or white edges of the fins being more noticeable and the greenish-gold markings on the body scales being especially noticeable. In males, the spiky part of the dorsal fin has a unique pattern of oblique stripes, while in females, it is nearly uniform. The blue markings on the underside of the head in females eventually fade into plain blue areas, though this is not always the case.

In aquarium settings, sexual maturity is typically reached at around 10 cm, though much smaller fish can occasionally reach this stage and become fully colored. Stunted growth can happen in the wild as well, but it is most likely the result of overcrowding in rearing tanks.

Aquarium enthusiasts frequently choose the colorful and captivating Turquoise Acara (Andinoacara rivulatus). This species brings beauty to any tank with its striking blue-green colors and unique patterns. It is a wonderful addition for both inexperienced and seasoned fish keepers due to its captivating behavior and easy maintenance needs, in addition to its striking appearance. The Turquoise Acara adds visual appeal and vibrant activity to your aquatic world, whether you’re setting up a new aquarium or trying to improve an old one.

Breeding

Quite simple, provided you can find a suitable pair. Unfortunately, matching adults is a challenging task because, in aquarium settings, males will frequently kill females if they are simply housed together. A transparent partition placed in the center of the aquarium and left for a few weeks to allow the male to acclimate to his possible mate have proven to be effective breeding strategies for some hobbyists. Purchasing at least six young fish and letting them form natural pairs is a much easier and preferred method. Once the pair has formed, it makes sense to take out the other fish.

Water in the aquarium should be installed between 24 and 26 °C, with a pH of 6.5 to 7.0 and a slightly soft and acidic tone. Since power filters can draw in fry, it is recommended to use air filtration instead. A variety of flat stones could serve as breeding grounds. To get the fish ready for spawning, feed them frozen feed that is more vibrant.

Once you get a couple, they should proliferate on their own without any extra help from you. Often, substantial (30–50%) cold water substitutions can initiate sprouting. The pair will decide which location within their territory to spawn in, and they will then meticulously clean it. It could be a big flower pot, a level stone, or a hole that has been excavated. Like many other cichlid species, they spawn by having the female lay a row of eggs and then move on, leaving the male to take her place and fertilize the eggs. 200 to more than 600 eggs can be laid, depending on the female’s size and health.

After three to four days, the larvae hatch, and the male takes care of the eggs while the female defends the spawning site. After hatching, the larvae are repeatedly transferred to pre-dug holes, where they stay until they can swim freely. After another five to seven days, they can start eating powdered dry food and brine shrimp nauplii. Until the point at which brood care starts to diminish, which is typically around six weeks, the fry are left with their parents.

The fry are walked around the aquarium and are guarded by both parents. The male starts the attack when there is actual or perceived danger, like an approaching fish or even a person, and the female saves the fry.

The Turquoise Acara (Andinoacara rivulatus) has a life expectancy of roughly ten years.

Andinoacara rivulatus, commonly known as the Turquoise Acara, is a colorful and striking addition to any freshwater aquarium. It adds vibrancy and color to the tank with its eye-catching blue-green coloring and gregarious demeanor. This species is a favorite of both novice and expert aquarists because it is not only gorgeous but also reasonably simple to maintain.

Providing a large tank for a Turquoise Acara is one of the most important parts of maintaining one. For these fish to be healthy and happy, their habitat must be kept up properly, and they require space to swim and explore. To lessen stress and aggression, especially when keeping them with other fish, it’s crucial to provide hiding places and territories in addition to having the right tank size.

Turquoise Acara are not very picky eaters; they do well on a varied diet consisting of premium pellets, flakes, and occasionally frozen or live foods. Their healthy overall condition and brilliant colors are preserved by this varied diet. These fish will remain in peak condition if the water is regularly maintained and observed.

All things considered, keeping Turquoise Acaras is a rewarding hobby. For those wishing to add some color to their aquarium, this plant is a great option due to its eye-catching appearance and easy maintenance requirements. This fish can flourish and develop into a cherished focal point of your aquatic arrangement with the correct care.

Video on the topic

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