Who are African Achatina snails and how to care for them

Some of the world’s largest land snails, African Achatina snails are prized for their stunning spiral shells and enormous stature. These snails are indigenous to the warm, tropical regions of Africa, where they can reach a length of 20 cm. Pet enthusiasts love them for their hardiness and ease of care, especially those who enjoy keeping exotic animals.

These snails are excellent for novices and families because of their peaceful and kind disposition. Especially when they slowly investigate their environment and use their antennae to sense their way around, they are fascinating to watch. As long as their basic needs are met, achatina snails are also known for their ability to adapt to a variety of environments, making their care relatively easy.

Although it’s simple, taking care of African Achatina snails needs some attention to detail. They require an atmosphere that is warm and muggy, just like their natural habitat. The perfect terrarium will have ample room for them to walk around without feeling cramped. In order to preserve the integrity of their shells, these snails also need a calcium source and a substrate in which to burrow. They will live long and healthy lives if their habitat is regularly cleaned, fed, and watched over.

Contents
  1. What does an Achatina snail look like
  2. The structure of the snail and its organs
  3. Sizes
  4. Weight
  5. Slime of the Achatina snail
  6. How long does a snail live at home
  7. Behavior
  8. Types of snails
  9. Historical data
  10. Where it lives in the wild
  11. Keeping Achatina at home – basic rules and care
  12. House for Achatina – terrarium
  13. Ventilation
  14. Humidity and temperature
  15. Lighting
  16. Choosing and arranging the substrate – soil for snails
  17. Decorating and arranging the terrarium
  18. Cleaning by Achatine
  19. Rules of handling
  20. Should I pick up the pet
  21. Bathing – necessary or a misconception
  22. Achatina snail in hibernation
  23. How to wake a snail from hibernation
  24. The shell of the Achatina snail as an indicator of health and what to do if it breaks
  25. Feeding
  26. How often to feed Achatina
  27. What is allowed – a list of products
  28. What is forbidden
  29. What to feed in winter
  30. Mineral supplements – sources of calcium for snails
  31. Calcium mixture for Achatina
  32. How to give chalk
  33. How to give shells
  34. Reproduction
  35. Mating
  36. How to understand that the Achatina snail is pregnant
  37. How Achatina lay eggs
  38. Control of the appearance of clutches
  39. Achatina eggs
  40. How long does it take for snails to hatch
  41. How to care for small ones
  42. Growth table of Achatina snails
  43. Main diseases of Achatina
  44. The effect of calcium on development
  45. How to understand that a snail is sick
  46. How to understand that Achatina is dying
  47. Possible difficulties
  48. Violation of the temperature regime
  49. Drought in the terrarium
  50. Laying period
  51. Incorrect selection of the menu
  52. Constant sleep
  53. Problems with the snail shell
  54. 5 reasons to buy an Achatina snail
  55. How much does an Achatina snail cost and where is the best place to buy it
  56. How Achatina differs from Archachatina
  57. How snails are useful for humans
  58. How Achatina is used in cosmetology
  59. Snail mucin (in creams, serums, gels, masks) – effect on the skin
  60. Achatina massage
  61. Does the Achatina snail harm humans
  62. Snail allergy
  63. Video on the topic
  64. Achatina snails – care and maintenance. How to care for snails and what to feed them?
  65. African Achatina snails what to feed?
  66. Domestic Achatina snails. A short course in snail breeding (keeping, care, feeding). // Clever Cricket
  67. Achatina snails. All about Achatina snails, care and maintenance at home
  68. Achatina snails – care and maintenance

What does an Achatina snail look like

Achatina snails are thought to be the largest members of their class due to their remarkable sizes.

These mollusks are distinguished by a stunning shell with multiple curls.

The structure of the snail and its organs

The Achatina has a very basic structure:

Tentacles are movable, long organs with eyes at the end that are located on the mollusk’s head in addition to its mouth. Achatina’s field of vision is limited to three centimeters. These people are also highly sensitive to light, particularly bright light. It is perceived by the body’s light-sensitive cells in addition to the visual organs.

About twenty-five thousand teeth make up the snail’s mouth, and they serve as a kind of grater for food grinding. The name of this gadget is "radula."

The snail lacks ears, so it cannot hear, but it makes up for this shortcoming with olfactory organs, which are tiny swellings on the tips of its tentacles and on the skin in front of its body.

Specific odors such as acetone, gasoline, alcohol, etc. can be detected by Achatina at a distance of 4 cm, while food aromas can be detected at a distance of 2 meters.

Mollusks’ tactile organs, the sole and tentacles, enable them to recognize the outlines of surrounding objects and acquaint themselves with their surroundings. They can be identified by their pointed shape and multiple turns (adults have 8–9) on their shell.

The following organs are part of Achatina’s internal structure:

  • heart;
  • mouth, salivary glands, pharynx;
  • one lung;
  • reproduction system (the snail has both male and female genitals);
  • esophagus smoothly turning into goiter;
  • stomach;
  • intestines;
  • one kidney;
  • liver;
  • circulatory system;
  • nerves that encircle the entire body of the snail.

Compared to animals and humans, the structure of the organs in Achatina is more straightforward.

The mollusk’s ability to regenerate over time allows it to replace lost organs in addition to damaged tissues.

Sizes

Gross land gastropods are the Achatina snails. Their length can reach up to 25 centimeters in the natural environment, or as near to it as possible, and their shell can grow up to 30 centimeters. These mollusks range in size from 12 to 15 centimeters on average.

Weight

Achatina adults weigh between 150 and 250 grams. This number is directly impacted by the detention circumstances.

Slime of the Achatina snail

Mollusk mucus is a viscous, translucent material that has many beneficial qualities.

The gastropod’s sole is shielded from friction by its mucus, which greatly aids in their mobility.

The components that make up its composition help the Achatina’s damaged shell heal and regenerate. This is caused by several factors:

  1. Allantotoin – stimulates regeneration processes.
  2. Collagen – helps maintain elasticity.
  3. Elastin – maintains elasticity.
  4. Vitamins A, E, C and group B.
  5. Peptides – protect against bacteria that cause skin diseases.
  6. Glycolic acid – removes dead cells and various contaminants.
  7. Lectins – have cleansing properties.

Cosmetologists have actively embraced these qualities and use snail mucin in their procedures, among other uses.

How long does a snail live at home

At home, Achatina can expect to live for five to ten years. Their life can be shortened primarily due to chips and cracks in the shell. If this kind of issue arises, the snail itself is kept apart from the other individuals for a while and the injured areas are treated with a disinfectant.

Behavior

Achatinas typically live at night; they can only emerge during the day in the event of precipitation. These mollusks have been shown by scientists to possess long-term memory, as evidenced by their ability to recall every detail that occurs within an hour. For instance, they go back to a particular location where the food supply is found. Compared to older snails, which spend nearly all of their time in isolated areas and only crawl outside in search of food, younger snails lead more active lives. Achatinas follow their owner’s hands when they recognize him and can tell him apart from strangers.

Types of snails

Achatina come in a variety of varieties; they vary in size, color, and occasionally even personality. Out of all the species, only two or three are common.

A picture featuring the species’ name

Historical data

These enormous mollusks originate from the eastern region of Africa, which experiences high humidity and temperatures. Achatina later made appearances in Madagascar, India, Sri Lanka, and the Seychelles. The individuals had spread to Malaysia and Indochina in ten years.

After arriving on Taiwan, the Achatina started to spread quickly, which caused issues for the local populace. While the Taiwanese happily consumed their meat, they simultaneously attempted to find a solution to get rid of the snails. Additionally, the Japanese started making special dishes using the pests after they arrived in the southern part of the island.

Because it was possible to make a lot of money in Japan by selling Achatina meat, Japanese farmers started artificially breeding these animals. Japan was spared the giant mollusks’ widespread dispersal because the conditions in the country’s northern regions were not conducive to their growth.

The Ministry of Agriculture in India declared war on Achatina because they consume the lion’s share of the harvest. Concurrently, this nation is well-known for its clam soup, which has been shown to be effective in treating tuberculosis.

The importation of giant snails into the United States is prohibited by law. A $5,000 fine or up to five years in jail are possible penalties for the offender.

Where it lives in the wild

The African snail favors warm temperatures and high humidity levels. It can be found in fields, forests, meadows, and close to different bodies of water. Achatina populations are particularly large in areas where people cultivate sugar cane, as these are the habitat of individual species in tropical countries. This is because mollusks consider this crop to be a delicacy.

Keeping Achatina at home – basic rules and care

African mollusks require excellent care when kept at home. A properly equipped home with the ideal temperature for Achatina is one of the primary prerequisites for their upkeep. Unsuitable weather conditions will cause people to hibernate and increase their metabolism.

House for Achatina – terrarium

The ensuing receptacles featuring an ejectable cover can serve as a dwelling for an enormous gastropod:

  • terrarium for keeping reptiles;
  • classic aquarium;
  • transparent plastic container.

The container needs to fulfill several specifications:

  • not be round;
  • have transparent or matte walls;
  • be environmentally friendly.

Plywood and cardboard should not be used for building materials because Achatina will chew through them and have a chance to escape.

You must weigh the advantages and disadvantages of both materials when deciding between glass and plastic.

  1. Advantages: aesthetics, environmental friendliness.
  2. Disadvantages: inconvenient cleaning, too much weight, difficulties in arranging optimal ventilation.

Achatina is at risk in glass terrariums because it can break off the wall due to damage to its shell on the hard bottom.

Container made of plastic:

  1. Advantages: light weight, mobility, ease of cleaning, safety for the snail.
  2. Disadvantages: less attractive appearance compared to glass, insufficient environmental friendliness.

The pet shouldn’t be harmed by the container’s joints, sharp edges, or corners.

You should consider the standard when determining the terrarium’s volume—at least 10 liters for each person. A living area holding 20 liters would be the best choice.

The following are the ideal house dimensions for the mollusk:

  • height – 17-22 cm;
  • width – 23-30 cm;
  • length – 35-40 cm.

Achatina crawls on the roof, but she occasionally falls and can get hurt if she falls from a height, so the container shouldn’t be vertical.

Ventilation

Cycle ventilation must be set up in the terrarium because stagnant air encourages the growth of dangerous microorganisms. In order to accomplish this, you must drill tiny holes in the walls, up to 3 mm in diameter and up to 3 cm apart. This solution will keep the soil well-ventilated and at the ideal humidity range of 75% to 85%, which you will need to monitor with a thermometer and hygrometer.

Humidity and temperature

For the snail to live comfortably, the air temperature should be between +24 and 28 °C. An incandescent light can be used to generate heat and keep drafts away. Boiling water must be sprayed on the bottom soil on a regular basis to provide the required humidity.

A tiny cup of water can be used to create a natural moisture source inside the Achatina’s home, allowing the moisture to evaporate and its vapors to fill the air.

Lighting

Since the amount of light does not significantly impact the snail’s essential functions, additional lighting is not needed to maintain it. It’s crucial for Achatina to alternate between the day and night because they are known to be more active at night and to rest during the day by burying themselves in a layer of dirt.

If there is any lighting apparatus, it needs to be kept outside the terrarium to prevent injury to any crawling pets.

Choosing and arranging the substrate – soil for snails

The bottom of the house should be lined with a layer of soil. For this purpose, it is best to use flower compost, which does not contain additional fertilizers, as well as pure peat, while not forgetting about its ability to create an acidic environment. The soil must be constantly kept moist, since the overdried version of the Achatina will have to moisten itself with its own mucus. As a substrate, it is permissible to use loose sand, walnut cores or hazelnut shells, as well as coconut briquettes (coconut shells and fibers). It is not recommended to put fatty loams, clay on the bottom and add pieces of wood and bark to the substrate.

Decorating and arranging the terrarium

You can add glass pebbles, moss, and bits of woody plants to the terrarium to make an interior. In this instance, it’s imperative to make sure that none of the décor’s angles or edges are sharp. Not only will all these things adorn the snail house, but they will also enable her to conceal herself during the day. By adding live plants, some owners turn the terrarium’s bottom into a verdant haven. In this instance, it is imperative to regulate the soil’s state during irrigation to prevent waterlogging. Plants with small leaf villi should be prioritized when selecting specimens.

The terrarium is planted with Poyshus, and the Paporotnik mollusk will actively consume it.

Cleaning by Achatine

Depending on how the filler is at the bottom, you should clean the terrarium two or three times every four months. The following components are part of the procedure:

  • thorough flushing with baking soda;
  • Full replacement of the soil.

Using chemical-containing cleaning products and industrial detergents to clean the terrarium is not acceptable.

It is advised to perform an impromptu cleaning if mucus from the snail is discovered on the container walls.

Rules of handling

The pet will be protected from numerous diseases by proper handling, routine terrarium maintenance, and adherence to all feeding guidelines.

Should I pick up the pet

You can pick up the Achatina, but there are some guidelines you need to know:

  • This must be done with great care so as not to damage the fragile shell and delicate mucus of the mollusk;
  • Hands must be perfectly clean, with no various bacteria, traces of sweat, residues of cream, detergents, salty and spicy food.

You must take the dog and cat out of the room before you can remove the snail from its container.

When working with the Achatina, it is best to have wet hands as this will make the process of sliding much easier.

Bathing – necessary or a misconception

Since gastropods enjoy regular bathing, it is advised to set up a small pool in the terrarium that resembles a bowl filled with water. Furthermore, the snail requires frequent showering. The person should be lifted and held over the sink under a gentle stream of warm water for this purpose. Three minutes is how long this procedure should take at most.

Achatina snail in hibernation

The mollusk hibernates for a number of reasons, including:

  • severe stress, including due to sudden temperature changes;
  • improper nutrition, lack of necessary supplements;
  • low temperature and dry air in the terrarium;
  • the period of adaptation to new conditions.

In Achatina, hibernation is typically observed during the winter, when heat from room radiators dries the air. The mollusk forms an epiphragm, or film, around its mouth before hibernating. This film is made of mucus, lime, and protein components that are produced.

When the snail shows the first indications of hibernation, water procedures should be increased, calcium should be added to the diet, and the humidity level in the house should be strictly regulated.

The mollusk loses body weight while hibernating because its body is not replenished with water. A person may die if they hibernate for longer than sixty days.

How to wake a snail from hibernation

The mollusk can be roused from its hibernation in a few different ways:

  • hold it under a warm stream of water for several minutes;
  • wait for the moment when it looks out of the mouth by breaking the damper;
  • place it in a terrarium with an optimal temperature and humidity level;
  • sprinkle with water.

Achatina can also be bathed in whey, milk, or chamomile water. Any of these liquids should be at +36 °C in temperature. If the snail does not come out of its shell after the first attempt, you should try the process again. Many breeders, though, doubt the efficacy of this method.

The shell of the Achatina snail as an indicator of health and what to do if it breaks

The state of the mollusk’s shell can reveal information about both its overall health and quality of life. Epoxy glue is required if the shell is broken or has compromised integrity. In this instance, Achatina requires a diet rich in calcium along with additional special mineral supplements.

You must treat the mollusks with extreme caution because a fractured snail shell signifies impending death.

Feeding

The African mollusk uses its "tongue," which is covered in horny spines, to help it eat.

How often to feed Achatina

A mollusk that is larger will require less food; in this instance, feeding it every other day is acceptable. Young animals, on the other hand, require daily feeding. Food should be brought inside the house in the evening when people are up.

What is allowed – a list of products

Achatina’s diet ought to consist of the following items:

  • vegetables: tomatoes, cucumbers, pumpkin, zucchini, peas, young corn, carrots, cabbage;
  • fruits and berries: apples, bananas, pears, cherries, melons, plums, watermelons, apricots, mango, pineapples, avocados, raspberries, strawberries;
  • greens: parsley, spinach, lettuce and dill;
  • herbs: dandelion, clover, nettle, burdock, plantain;
  • corn and barley groats;
  • rolled oats;
  • rice;
  • pearl barley;
  • buckwheat;
  • flaxseeds;
  • sesame;
  • lentils;
  • sunflower.

What is forbidden

Feeding the African snail any of the following items is prohibited:

  • spicy, smoked and pickled food;
  • sauces, mayonnaise, ketchup;
  • any kind of sweets, including sugar;
  • salt;
  • citrus fruits: oranges and lemons, the acid of which destroys the snail"s shell;
  • currants, viburnum, gooseberries, grapes, blackthorn, quince, cranberries, cherry plums;
  • unripe tomatoes and potatoes, eggplants;
  • vegetables of the nightshade family;
  • ginger;
  • fatty lamb, beef and pork;
  • sour cream and cream;
  • bitter vegetables: radishes, onions, hot peppers, garlic;
  • flour and pasta products that cause obstruction in the mollusk, leading to its death.

Achatina should only eat incredibly fresh, premium food free of harmful additives and dyes.

What to feed in winter

During the winter, Achatina’s diet needs to consist of:

  • pumpkin;
  • carrots;
  • beets;
  • cabbage;
  • chopped apples and bananas;
  • low-fat cottage cheese.

Fish flakes are a good food source for gastropods; these can be bought in specialty stores.

Mineral supplements – sources of calcium for snails

Snails require vitamins and minerals, just like any other living thing. These components are essential to an individual’s growth and development as well as the structure of their shell.

Calcium mixture for Achatina

Because calcium improves the condition of the shell, snails require regular intake of this mineral. Calcium supplements are common sources of this mineral and can be made at home or bought from a store. Typically, they consist of the following elements:

  • cuttlefish shell (sepia);
  • eggshell;
  • shell rock;
  • daphnia;
  • feed chalk.

How to give chalk

The form of chalk used as a calcium source is a unique powder made from a naturally occurring mineral. The chalk used to write on a board or draw on asphalt is not the same as this feed because of the numerous chemical additives it contains.

The snail chalk can be given either in its unadulterated state, by lightly moistening the powder with water, or in mixtures with different ingredients. Take oatmeal and eggshells, for instance.

How to give shells

After a thorough washing and drying process, eggshells are ground into a powder. It is advised to only use the product made from raw eggs because cooking removes a lot of beneficial microelements. Furthermore, the Achatina body does not absorb this type of feed very well.

Reproduction

Because they are hermaphrodites, achatina cannot be classified as either male or female. For their breeding, two mature individuals will be more than sufficient. Within, achatina always fertilizes.

Mating

It is advised to mate with the snail only after its growth has ceased. Achatina reach sexual maturity between three and four months, but at that point they are not yet able to lay eggs. They typically hibernate or die in this situation.

It is not appropriate for members of the same clutch to mate.

Mollusks have their genitalia on the right side of their necks. These body parts are rubbed by two people during the mating process. The snail can store the seed for up to two years after fertilization, which only requires one sexual act.

How to understand that the Achatina snail is pregnant

Seven days after mating, the clutch of eggs is visible through the side spiracle. Mollusks are becoming less active and mostly spend their time underground.

How Achatina lay eggs

Both sides should expect fertilization if individuals of the same size engage in mating. This process will be one-sided if one of the snails is larger than the other. The snail can produce eggs once it has mated once a month.

Certain Achatina species reproduce viviparously, giving birth to young offspring right away.

Control of the appearance of clutches

The mollusk may lay fewer eggs in its first clutch, but subsequent clutches will always contain more. Touching the clutch with your hands will cause the mollusks to perish, so avoid doing so. The only way to gather eggs that are strewn across the ground is using a spoon. In the event that their number exceeds expectations, the excess is eliminated. It is essential to maintain a soil temperature of + 26 to + 28 °C for the clutch to mature.

Achatina eggs

The oval-shaped, white mollusk eggs are laid. They have a calcium layer covering them from all sides.

Not every one of Achatina’s postponed testicles will be viable.

How long does it take for snails to hatch

In 12–14 days, small Achatina hatch from eggs when the right conditions are met.

How to care for small ones

The newly emerged offspring needs to be relocated to a tiny (8–10 liter) container with ventilation holes in it. Their home’s ideal temperature range is between +25 and +27°C, and its ideal humidity range is between -65 and 70%. It is advised to use lettuce or cabbage leaves as soil for newborns. Mashed vegetables, grain mixtures, calcium mixtures, and chopped greens should all be included in the baby’s diet.

Growth table of Achatina snails

Type/Size in cm 1 month. 2 months. 3 months. 4 months. 5 months. 12 months.
Achatina Achatina 1-2 cm 2-3 cm 3-4 cm 1-2 cm 5-6 cm up to 25 cm
Achatina Fulica 1.5-2 cm 4 cm 5-6 cm 8-10 cm 10+ 10-18 cm
Achatina Immaculata 2 cm 3-4 cm 5-6 cm 7-8 cm 10+ 10-15 cm
Achatina reticulak 3-4 cm 7+ 10+ 13-14 cm 15+ up to 20 cm
Achatina Panther 2+ 4+ 6+ 10+ up to 12 cm

There is an indication of the shell’s average length. If your pet’s measurements do not match those in the table, do not be alarmed. Every snail grows at a different rate, based on a variety of variables. Most snails reach adulthood after one year of age.

Main diseases of Achatina

The African snail is a living thing and can become ill like any other. Its incessant need for shelter, lack of activity, and refusal to eat are signs of this illness. The mollusk disease can have a variety of sources, such as infection from other people.

Quarantining the acquired Achatina for a minimum of 30 days is necessary; it should not be put with experienced users right away.

The following illnesses are the most common ones that breeders deal with:

  1. Damage by worms and helminths. This problem is accompanied by a decrease in weight and activity. Some types of parasites can be seen on the snail"s body. The source of infection can be a person, domestic animals (cats, dogs), as well as individuals living in the same terrarium. If no measures are taken to get rid of worms, then the Achatina will die.
  2. Damage by bedbugs, bugs, fungus, etc.p. The reason for the appearance of these parasites can be poor cleaning in the house and contact with infected mollusks. Signs of infection of the pet are lethargy, loss of appetite and abundant mucus secretion.
  3. Infections. The causative agents of these diseases are bacteria and viruses. Symptoms of infectious diseases of the snail are expressed by loss of activity and loss of appetite.
  4. Tumors (malignant, benign or spontaneous). The cause of the disease is poor quality soil and materials for the terrarium, infections, poor cleaning in the pet"s house. With a benign tumor, the behavior of the pet does not change. Malignant neoplasms cause discomfort to it. To avoid suffering snail, it is best to freeze it.

If the breeder complies with all care instructions, Achatina will develop healthily and bring him pleasure for many years.

The effect of calcium on development

Basically, the structure of the snail"s shell consists of calcium carbonate (CaCO3) and a protein-type binder (conchiolin). During the growth process, pets secrete a substance, formed from carbon dioxide and contributing to the increase in the size and thickness of the shell. Such secretions are carried out by the glands of the mollusk, located on the skin fold (mantle). Thus, the growth of new coils and shell growth occurs due to the consumption and processing of calcium. Therefore, young Achatina and individuals with damaged shells need calcium in large quantities. Also, a great need for this element arises during the formation of egg clutches. Mollusks get calcium not only from food, but also through the sole of their foot.

Lack of calcium causes the following detrimental effects:

  • fragility and brittleness of shells;
  • growth cessation;
  • snails eating their own or a neighbor"s shell;
  • long-term healing of injuries;
  • problems with bearing eggs, affecting the health of future offspring.

How to understand that a snail is sick

Achatina is prone to a number of illnesses even though its upkeep cannot be described as arbitrary. This is usually the result of inadequate nutrition and care. As a mollusk cannot be taken to a veterinarian, you must be able to identify the presence of a specific disease on your own. At the very least, the pet is not feeling well if it remains still for multiple hours. In this instance, you ought to begin keeping an eye on the mollusk’s health.

Achatina’s listlessness, inability to eat, blockage of the shell’s mouth, and lying deep within the shell are all signs that the snail is ill.

Furthermore, peeling of the shell and abnormally thick mucus secretion are possible symptoms of illness.

How to understand that Achatina is dying

The pet may occasionally remain inside the shell for a considerable amount of time before coming out again. Under such circumstances, the shell is heavy and the film covering the entrance stays wet. You should try to coax the snail out of its shell and feed it if it remains inside for an extended period of time. Achatina is dying if she exhibits the following symptoms:

  • lack of reaction to splashing with water;
  • the mollusk is deep in the shell;
  • dark liquid leaking from the shell;
  • the appearance of a sharp, unpleasant odor.

An inanimate snail’s body turns yellow and gets tough.

Possible difficulties

When breeding Achatina, you may run into some issues, most of which are related to poor pet care.

Violation of the temperature regime

Drafts and extremely high or low temperatures are bad for the health of the snail. The terrarium runs the risk of overheating if it is placed next to heating sources or in direct sunlight. The mollusk perishes if it becomes too hot.

Achatina development is slowed down and may even undergo anabiosis at temperatures below +19 °C.

The pet losing interest in activities and refusing food are indicators of temperature effects.

The snail should be held under a stream of cool water to prevent overheating, and should it become hypothermic, it should be gently cleaned with a soft, warm napkin.

Drought in the terrarium

The pet’s condition is adversely affected by low humidity in the terrarium. As a result, it’s essential to keep the humidity in its home between 70% and 85% all the time. It is advised to use a hygrometer and a spray bottle for this purpose.

As soon as you notice a mollusk hiding inside a shell, you need to check the terrarium’s humidity level.

Laying period

Pregnancy in Achatinas usually goes smoothly in their natural habitat, but this cannot be said of snail reproduction in homes. Numerous issues arise in captivity as a result of the clutch’s formation and bearing:

  • cessation of growth and development of the individual;
  • significant consumption of protein and calcium;
  • thinning of the shell with subsequent deformation and peeling.

During pregnancy, a young, small-sized Achatina may hibernate.

In order to preserve the health of the snail carrying the clutch, all guidelines pertaining to the terrarium’s climate and feeding schedule must be closely followed.

Incorrect selection of the menu

Products that support an individual snail’s complete life and fortify its shell should be included in its diet. The Achatina coil will become mushy and prone to deformation if it is malnourished. Because the pet’s internal organs are intricately linked to its shell, any damage stunts its growth and frequently results in death.

Constant sleep

Snails frequently hibernate in response to inappropriate confinement circumstances, low-quality food, or none at all. An extended anabiosis lasting longer than 20 days severely depletes the Achatina’s body. The mollusk may perish if it is not revived from this state in a timely manner.

The epiphragma, the pet’s protective membrane, needs to be watched during hibernation. If it becomes drawn into the coil, the animal is beginning to dry out and has to be woken up right away.

Problems with the snail shell

When breeding Achatina, issues with the shell’s unsatisfactory state frequently occur; these issues are typically the result of maintenance errors. Among them are:

  • deficiency of calcium, protein and vitamins in the body;
  • improperly selected soil: rocky or sandy;
  • frequent bathing of the individual under a stream of chlorinated water;
  • the presence of a fungal infection as a result of unsanitary conditions;
  • unsuitable climatic conditions;
  • insufficient terrarium volume.

If the mollusk’s shell shows signs of bites from other people, you need to take immediate action to isolate the hurt animal and give it as much calcium as possible.

The following tasks are part of maintaining the mollusk shell:

  • keeping in mats or only high-quality soil;
  • ensuring the necessary temperature and humidity;
  • using only purified and well-settled water for all pet needs, including bathing;
  • regular feeding with mixtures containing calcium;
  • treating the coil with special compounds: propolis-based ointment, natural vegetable oils; products containing vitamins A and E;
  • constant presence of pumpkin and carrots in the Achatina diet.

Coil cracks are fixed using adhesive tape, plaster, or glue.

Inadequate care or stress can prevent a snail from emerging from its protective shell. After giving the pet a warm, clean bath, you must give it fresh food in the terrarium to coax it out of its shell.

Inadequate genetics, harmful pesticide effects, and parasite infestations can all cause akhatine from the sink. The likelihood of a fatal outcome in this instance is 98%.

While older snails will undoubtedly die, younger snails still have a slim chance of growing a new coil.

5 reasons to buy an Achatina snail

Not every pet owner envisions a common snail as their ideal companion. Nonetheless, Achatina is advised to be kept at home for the following reasons:

  • unpretentiousness in care and feeding;
  • noiselessness;
  • unusual, attractive appearance;
  • the possibility of earning money from breeding and further sale of mollusks;
  • use as a skin care product (massage, application of mucus).

Large, low-maintenance land snails, known as African Achatinas, are popular pet snails because of their unusual look and ease of care. A large tank with moist soil for burrowing, warm temperatures, and a varied diet of fruits, vegetables, and calcium sources to support shell growth are all necessary to keep them happy and healthy. Frequent misting maintains humidity in their surroundings, and gentle handling gives them a sense of security. These snails make excellent additions to a home aquarium setup and are fascinating to watch.

How much does an Achatina snail cost and where is the best place to buy it

Achatina is available for purchase from private breeders who produce snails for market, or from pet stores. A pedigree may even be provided by some. It is true that there is no value or utility to this. It is advised to visit the seller multiple times prior to making a purchase in order to observe the pet’s behavior and level of activity.

In the event that there are any issues, you should get the seller’s phone number for a reputable veterinarian as well as care instructions for the mollusk.

Achatina costs between 100 and 700 rubles.

How Achatina differs from Archachatina

Aside from the well-known giant snail Achatina, enthusiasts of domestic mollusks also frequently encounter Archachatina, another African representative. Character, appearance, and food preferences are where these two species diverge from one another. The primary variations consist of:

  1. Apex (end of the shell). In Achatina it is sharp, in Archachatina it is rounded.
  2. Tip of the leg. In Archachatina, the end of the leg ends in the shape of the letter V, Achatina does not have this feature.
  3. Body structure. The skin of the Achatina"s legs is smooth and soft, divided into relatively large areas. The limb of the Achatina is hard to the touch, divided into many small, rough protruding sectors.
  4. Behavior. Achatina are active, mobile and curious. Archatina are cautious and slow.
  5. Reproduction. Mollusks differ in the size of their eggs, their number in the clutch, as well as the age at which sexual maturity is reached.

Since Achatina and Achatina have different dietary needs, activity levels, and climate requirements, keeping them in the same terrarium is not advised.

How snails are useful for humans

Achatina secretes a secretion that is full of beneficial properties. Certain diseases are treated with it because of its effects on the human dermis.

How Achatina is used in cosmetology

The only giant mollusk species used in cosmetics are Achatina. Their secretion is used to facilitate the following processes:

  • skin rejuvenation;
  • scar removal;
  • reduction of the number of wrinkles;
  • getting rid of skin diseases;
  • regeneration and moisturizing of the skin;
  • lightening of pigmentation.

The mucus that snails secrete helps to treat acne, flaking, and other inflammations.

Snail mucin (in creams, serums, gels, masks) – effect on the skin

Achatina secretion is found in a lot of makeup items. Its distinct components determine such active use:

  • collagen – maintains skin elasticity and its natural elasticity;
  • allantoin – promotes the regeneration process;
  • elastin – maintains the smoothness of the dermis;
  • peptides – protect against harmful bacteria;
  • vitamins A, B, E, C;
  • glycolic acid – removes impurities and dead cells;
  • lectins – act as a cleanser.

Mucin is beneficial to the skin’s deep layers as well as its outermost layers.

Achatina massage

The elasticity of the skin is restored and lymph flow is boosted with snail massage. The mollusks’ wave-like motions facilitate better blood flow. Such a procedure can take up to half an hour.

Does the Achatina snail harm humans

When living at home, achatina are thought to be harmless mollusks that do not cause any problems for people. Nonetheless, it frequently occurs that snails pick up parasites and fungi, which causes them to become carriers. These issues don’t always present a major risk to pets, but they can be fatal to an infected individual. This is particularly true for worms that enter people’s bodies and go straight to their brains, like:

In order to avoid these kinds of situations, as soon as a mollusk exhibits any signs of having parasites, action must be taken to eradicate them.

Snail allergy

Achatina are mollusks that are hypoallergenic. However, it is advised to confirm that the mucus’s ingredients are bearable before undergoing cosmetic procedures with their assistance. Additionally, coming into contact with the pet’s food and substrate can trigger an allergic reaction in people.

Characteristic Details
Species African Achatina snails
Size Can grow up to 20 cm in length
Habitat Prefers warm and humid environments
Diet Feeds on fruits, vegetables, and leafy greens
Housing Needs a spacious terrarium with good ventilation
Substrate Soil or coconut fiber for burrowing
Temperature Ideal range is 20-25°C
Humidity Keep humidity levels around 70-80%
Care Regularly mist the enclosure and clean it to prevent mold
Lifespan Can live up to 10 years with proper care

Fascinating African Achatina snails can make unusual and low-maintenance pets. Their unique spiral shells, which come in a variety of patterns and colors, and their enormous size are what make them famous. Because they are generally low maintenance, these snails are an excellent option for both novice and seasoned pet owners.

It’s crucial to give your Achatina snails a good habitat if you want to keep them happy and healthy. The perfect environment is a large, warm, and moist terrarium. To keep them comfortable, use a substrate that holds moisture, such as soil or coconut coir. Enhancing their living area can also involve adding plants, hiding places, and a shallow dish of water.

It’s easy to feed your Achatina snails. Their diet consists of leafy greens, fresh fruits, and vegetables. Make sure their diet is varied enough to supply every nutrient they require. As calcium is especially vital for the health of shells, providing a cuttlebone or calcium powder is advised. Maintain a clean terrarium on a regular basis to keep your snails healthy and to ward off bacteria and mold.

African Achatina snails can grow to be fairly large and live for several years with the right care, making them a rewarding pet. It is a pleasure to watch and take care of them due to their gentle disposition and carefree way of living. These fundamental care instructions can help you make sure your Achatina snails

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Elena Grishina

Ecologist and aquarist with a special interest in creating balanced ecosystems in aquariums. Main focus — ecosystems that require minimal human intervention. I support a natural approach to aquarium care, where each element plays its role, helping to maintain harmony in a closed ecosystem. I promote sustainable aquarium keeping and respect for nature.

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